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Culture

Shelf Life: Ottessa Moshfegh

Welcome to Shelf Life, ELLE.com’s books column, in which authors share their most memorable reads. Whether you’re on the hunt for a book to console you, move you profoundly, or make you laugh, consider a recommendation from the writers in our series, who, like you (since you’re here), love books. Perhaps one of their favorite titles will become one of yours, too.

Lapvona

random house
penguinrandomhouse.com

$27.00

Her third novel (Death in Her Hands) came out during lockdown; now comes Ottessa Moshfegh’s fourth, Lapvona (Penguin Press), written during lockdown.

Shortlisted for the Man Booker Prize and National Book Critics Circle Award, Moshfegh’s first book, Eileen, won the PEN/Hemingway Award For Debut Novel. Sales of her second, My Year of Rest and Relaxation, about a young woman who attempts to sleep her trauma away for a year, rose during the pandemic, as readers contended with their own isolation. It also spoke to Proenza Schouler, for whom she wrote a short story for the duo’s fall 2022 collection. She also contributed a story for Gagosian’s Picture Books series.

She is adapting her novella, McGlue, for Vice Films, for which she’ll be a producer; film rights to MYORAR were optioned by Margot Robbie’s production company and Atlas Films; and she and her husband, Luke Goebel, adapted the screenplay for Eileen, starring Anne Hathaway, and co-wrote Red, White and Water.

The Newton, Massachusetts-raised, Pasadena-based author played four instruments by age seven (her Iranian father is a violinist and Croatian mother is a violist); skipped 8th grade; got her MFA at Brown and was a Wallace Stegner Fellow at Stanford; lives in 1920s stone house called Casa de Pájaros (house of birds); consults a Vedic astrologer, has a mixed breed named Walter; wrote in a fictional letter to Donald Trump that she uses her middle name Charlotte at Starbucks; taught English and worked in a punk bar in Wuhan, China. Bad at: Painting. Good at: Consuming true crime shows, solitude.

The book that:

…kept me up way too late:

Communion by Whitley Strieber. It’s “A True Story” accounting for the author’s encounters with aliens, and I love the way it’s written: frank, intelligent, self-aware, and very descriptive.

…I recommend over and over again:

A Moveable Feast by Hemingway. It has a bit of everything: the truth, the times, his adventures, his associates, his struggles. The first time I read it, I was in Paris on a high school trip. The last time I spent significant time in Paris I read A Life of Picasso I: The Prodigy by John Richardson. I’ve never recommended it until now. It’s fascinating.

…shaped my worldview:

Invisible Man by Ralph Ellison. Probably the most important American novel of the last century.

…I swear I’ll finish one day:

The House of Mirth by Edith Wharton. I’ve read the first hundred pages a dozen times. It’s so good. I think it’s so good that it exhausts me, honestly. I’m just saying to myself, “Wow!” at the end of every paragraph. Maybe when I grow up, I’ll finish it…

…I read in one sitting, it was that good:

Wave by Sonali Deraniyagala. It’s a beautiful memoir about sudden and incomprehensible loss. It is also a survival story, and was very inspiring to me after I lost my brother.

…currently sits on my nightstand:

A few Audrey Hepburn biographies. The Barry Paris one is extremely detailed!

…made me laugh out loud:

Women by Charles Bukowski. It completely flipped on its head my conception of what a novel is. It is so deft and hilarious, and is narrated by the most depraved and brilliant protagonist. It’s both a disgusting love letter to women and a grotesque self-portrait of a man who will never understand them.

…has the best opening line:

“I was a child murderer.” This is the opening line in Expensive People by Joyce Carol Oates. It goes on: “I don’t mean child-murderer, though that’s an idea. I mean child murderer, that is, a murderer who happens to be a child, or a child who happens to be a murderer. You can take your choice. When Aristotle notes that man is a rational animal one strains forward, cupping his ear, to hear which of those words is emphasized—rational animal, rational animal? Which am I? Child murderer, child murderer?” Amazing…

…helped me become a better writer:

Gary Lutz’s early short story collection, Stories in the Worst Way. I discovered Lutz when I was in high school. There is so much precision to the construction of each sentence. It really made me sit up and fall in love with grammar in a deeper way, to appreciate that it has such a deep and beautiful system of reason behind it.

…is a master class on dialogue:

Kristine McKenna’s books of interviews with the most interesting artists, musicians, writers, filmmakers in the last 50 years, Talk to Her and Book of Changes! She is probably one of the best interlocutors on the planet.

…I’ve re-read the most:

Aghora: At the Left Hand of God by Robert E. Svoboda. I’ve read this book so many times because I know I will never fully understand it, but I would like to. It details Aghori Vimalananda’s stories and teachings, which are profoundly strange and very difficult for me to hold in my mind.

…sealed a friendship:

The Mars Room by Rachel Kushner. Rachel is a genius with an enormous heart. I am honored to call her a friend.

…fills me with hope:

Drinking: A Love Story by Caroline Knapp. I read this in my 20s when I first quit drinking. She wrote other books I love, but this one made the strongest impression on me. It may have been the first memoir I’d ever read.

…I’d want signed by the author:

West of Eden by Jean Stein. I had a signed copy of the book dedicated to me but lost it in one of my several moves across the country. Stein was a dear friend, and I had worked on the book a bit toward the end of her editing process. Stein passed away in 2017, and I really miss her.

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Men's Fashion

The 15 Best Jeans For Men, At Every Fit And Budget

We often preach the virtues of buying less but buying better. It makes sense for your wallet, the environment, and you’ll end up with a garment that’ll get better with time, rather than fast fashion that’s falling apart at the seams. And when it comes to finding the best jeans for men, this is no different.

In fact, if you’re going to spend big on a piece of clothing, there’s arguably no better investment in men’s pants than a pair of jeans. You can wear them with virtually anything, a well made pair will last forever, and then there’s the fade potential of raw denim, which is sole reason for many indigo enthusiasts to drop hundreds on blank denim canvasses, on which every step, bend and lean paints a new brush stroke.

Denim can be confusing though; how can you tell where to buy the best jeans for men? A quick Google reveals forums with enthusiastic tribes seemingly at war over which tiny Japanese brand makes the best jeans. The denim section on Superfuture’s forum has 200 threads alone, with each thread boasting up to 900 pages – it’s enough to make you choke on a cocktail of inseams and copper rivets. That’s why we rounded up the best jeans for men at every fit and budget, so you can get off the forums and into a pair that fits like a glove.

The Best Jeans for Men At Every Fit

Best Skinny Jeans for Men

Gap

Long a destination for quality denim at reasonable price points, Gap’s offering today includes premium, selvedge denim from esteemed mills such as Kaihara in Japan. For skinny or slim styles with minimal branding, it’s well worth a shot.

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Image Credit: Gap

H&M

With H&M you won’t get many of the quality details you read about above, or outstanding quality raw denim. What you will get is trend-led cuts and washes that’ll tick plenty of boxes for many. And at prices that won’t make you squirm.

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Image Credit: H&M

Everlane

A relative newcomer on the denim market, these jeans are from a brand that cares as much about sustainability as they do about style. Go for Everlane’s skinny or slim fit cuts that come in a variety of washes, all in classic, everyday styles you’ll never tire of.

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Everlane jeans
Image Credit: Everlane

Best Slim Fit Jeans

Uniqlo

Uniqlo denim may just be the best value around. The Japanese brand’s slim fit selvedge denim comes with a slight stretch for a comfortable fit, and even features chain-stitched hems, a detail usually reserved for jeans costing over twice as much.
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Image Credit: Uniqlo

Levi’s

Everyone knows Levi’s for its iconic 501 jeans, but we’d actually recommend the 511s, which feature a slimmer leg and more modern, slightly lower rise. Look out for selvedge pairs or the brand’s stretch black jeans, which are arguably the only pair you need.

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Image Credit: Levi’s

APC

APC’s denim is a particular highlight. It’s a secret recipe the brand has yet to reveal, giving each pair unique fading potential. It’s Petit Standard cut is slim with a tapered leg that finishes with a narrow opening. They start off stiff though so be prepared for a tough break in period.

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Image Credit: APC

Best Straight Leg Jeans

Madewell

Madewell rebranded itself with a men’s collection back in 2018, a real boon for denim-lovers. Their collection is stocked with classic cuts and washes that you’ll be able to use for years without worrying about them going out of style or wearing out.

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Madewell jeans
Image Credit: Madewell

Edwin

The famed Japanese brand is amongst the more well known for quality denim. You can’t go to far wrong with Edwin, just be prepared to try on a few pairs to find the right cut – its product line-up is prolific.

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Image Credit: Edwin

AMI

AMI has been one of the key proponents in the rise of mid-wash jeans over the last couple of years. Look for interesting details such as slanted trousers-style pockets, cool fabrics and a range of fits including looser regular cuts.

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Image Credit: AMI

Best Wide Leg Jeans

Nudie

Nudie is one of the top destinations for denim, with a wide range of fits to suit all body types. The brand recently introduced Sleepy Sixteen, its widest cut to date, showing the increased interest in relaxed silhouettes of late.

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Nudie Jeans
Image Credit: Nudie Jeans

Acne

Acne is a reliable, if expensive option for what they are (non-selvedge denim), but the fits on offer are undeniably good. Its Land jeans feature ‘baggy legs’ and a ‘boxy silhouette’, two phrases we’ve heard plenty of in recent times.
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ACNE Studios Jeans
Image Credit: Acne Studios

Eytys

Head to Eytys for a more fashion forward direction that still doesn’t skimp on quality. Raw denim is available, and in baggy cuts such as the Benz jean, which balloon out like Oxford bags.

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Image Credit: Eytys

Best Tapered Fit Jeans

3Sixteen

3Sixteen, based out of LA, is one of the more innovative denim brands around, known for its signature ‘shadow selvedge’ with its electric blue fades. The CT cut is one of its more popular jean styles, with a beautifully tapered that follows the contour of the wearer’s legs.

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Image Credit: 3Sixteen

Naked & Famous

Similarly, Naked & Famous’ Weird Guy jeans boast a subtle taper, then finished with a narrow hem – perfect to show off those new trainers. Value for money is hard to beat here – one of the best-made pairs of jeans you’ll find anywhere, all under $165.

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Naked & Famous jeans
Image Credit: Naked & Famous

The Unbranded Brand

The Unbranded brand offers a line of affordable, high-quality selvedge denim that you truly can’t beat for the price (anywhere from $88 to $124 a pair). Their jeans are medium to heavy-weight, and the unbranded look makes them feel minimalist and cool.

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Image Credit: The Unbranded Brand

What To Look For In A Pair Of Jeans

How They Fit

As is the case with any piece of clothing, fit is the most important aspect when it comes to parting with your hard-earned cash. If you like the way something fits, or if it complements your personal style – i.e. you might want to wear wide leg trousers if you like a mid-century aesthetic – then you can move on to other details like fabric choice, colour and so on. The point is, if it doesn’t fit, don’t buy it.

Mango Man
Image Credit: Mango Man

But how should a pair of jeans fit? There is no one answer and fit is more subjective today than ever. Yes, skinny jeans have been popular seemingly forever, but in the last few years brands have been slowly moving into more relaxed cuts that flatter rather than shrink-wrap the body. Nudie Jeans for example released two new relaxed styles alone in the last couple of years, to accompany its extensive line up of slim and skinny jeans – there’s more choice than ever before.

The Denim

The type of denim you choose for your jeans will dictate when they’re appropriate to wear. Something lightweight (under 12oz) is ideal for summer; middleweight (between 12 – 16oz) is good for three seasons and heavyweight (16oz +) should be reserved for colder climes. It’s also worth noting that the heavier the denim the longer it’ll take to break in, and the more uncomfortable it’ll be until it softens, but you’ll also get more extreme fades so there’s a tradeoff. Heavyweight denim is typically valued by enthusiasts for this very reason. No pain, no gain.

Jean Detailing

Heavier denim doesn’t necessarily equate to better quality either, although it is a good marker because it’s more difficult to produce. Many would argue the denim needs to be raw, including Danny Hodgson, owner and founder of Rivet & Hide: “Raw denim will mould to the wearer’s body shape over time creating natural crease lines and fade patterns.

“Denim woven on vintage looms that use premium grade cotton that has been rope-dyed in indigo will be full of character that reveals itself as the denim breaks in. Jeans that have been through a rigorous and environmentally damaging washing process essentially have all the life sucked out of the cotton and never become a very personal item of clothing in the way that a pair of raw jeans will.”

Jean Turn Ups

So, for the best chance of quality, go raw. You’ll be helping our planet too, according to Linda Rieswick, general manager of Son of a Stag. “Buying your jeans raw is much friendlier for the environment as the washing treatments [used by high street chains to achieve manufactured fades] consume tons of water. With raw, you’ll create your own fading history.”

Pay Attention To The Details

Aside from the actual denim fabric itself, there are a number of details that can give away a top pair of jeans. An easy marker is the selvedge which is found by turning up the hem of a leg. “It’s the end of the fabric which has been finished in a way to stop it fraying – it’s the mostly white line mixed with a distinctive red, blue or green colour thread. This is a historical feature where three of the oldest companies had their individual colours at the edge of rolls of fabric so they didn’t get mixed up in the warehouse, which were often shared (Levi’s are red selvedge, Lee Jeans were blue selvedge and Wrangler used green selvedge.).”

Jean Detailing

Whilst at the hem, it’s worth checking the stitching method used for it. Cheap jeans will have a ‘lockstitched’ hem, with a single thread that does the job, but can easily be achieved on any sewing machine. Better quality jeans will have a chainstitched hem, which are “done on very old industrial hemming machines from a company called Union Special”, according to Rieswick.

“These are nowadays very rare and are gold dust in the denim world as there is actually a small (beauty) flaw with this machine – it creates a high tension on the hem which makes the jeans ‘rope’, giving them a distinctive fade over time.”

Ultimately, spend as much as you can, and you’ll be rewarded with a pair you’ll want to cherish for years. Jeans were originally designed to be worn hard, and this just isn’t possible with an inferior product.

Pardeep Sahota, store manager and buyer at American Classics in London agrees. “Mass-market high street jeans won’t last for everyday wear due to the lower grade materials used, giving them an inconsistent quality. Investing in true artisan denim brands isn’t cheap, but because they’re made in much smaller runs from higher quality cotton, buying selvedge and/or raw denim offers more than value for money.”

Denim Trends To Keep An Eye On

You may not have the time or patience to go raw, especially if you’re after a specific look with your denim. Like any piece of clothing, jeans are not immune from trends. Ripped jeans were everywhere for a while but the last couple of years have seen a rise mid-wash and acid-wash denim, in line with the 90s trend that has somehow permeated the high street. You don’t have to look too hard these days to see a pale-wash jean/chunky trainer/puffer jacket combination Instagramming his way through a flat white.

King & Tuckfield
Image Credit: King & Tuckfield

Inspired by a more timeless decade are wide-leg jeans, a denim trend which takes its cues from the 1950s. Brands such as King & Tuckfield and E. Tautz have been championing breezy legs, often paired with other mid-century staples such as knitted polo shirt and penny loafers.

Model Richard Biedul who collaborated with the former and regularly walks many of the top men’s shows believes this is the direction men’s legs are going, “This season, the demand for wide legs has once again been echoed on the runways of London, Paris and Milan, with designers across the globe showcasing a wider, more relaxed male silhouette.”

Wide leg jeans are easier to wear than you might think, too. “When wearing them it’s important to remember to balance the silhouette you’re attempting to create. I’d therefore recommend going oversized (or relaxed) on not only your bottom half but also the top. Tucking your shirt or knitwear into your jeans will not only compliment the shape of them but also highlight the level of craftsmanship gone into them.”

Categories
Fitness

US Swimmer Anita Alvarez Opens Up About Fainting Underwater: “My Health Is Good”

Two-time Olympic swimmer Anita Alvarez was rescued by her coach after fainting during the FINA World Aquatics Championships in Budapest, Hungary. On Wednesday, the artistic swimmer for Team USA reportedly lost consciousness and started to sink shortly after finishing her solo routine at the event. Luckily, her coach, Andrea Fuentes, noticed Alvarez and acted quickly, diving into the pool while still fully clothed to save the athlete. In a statement via USA Artistic Swimming’s Instagram on Wednesday evening, Fuentes shared that Alvarez had been monitored by doctors and “feels good now.”

“[W]e push through limits and sometimes we find them.”

“Anita is okay — the doctors checked all vitals and everything is normal: heart rate, oxygen, sugar levels, blood pressure, etc . . . all is okay,” said Fuentes, who’s won four Olympic medals for synchronized swimming. “We sometimes forget that this happens in other high-endurance sports. Marathon, cycling, cross country . . . we all have seen images where some athletes don’t make it to the finish line and others help them to get there. Our sport is no different than others, just in a pool, we push through limits and sometimes we find them.”

Despite the medical emergency, Alvarez finished seventh in the solo free event and, according to Fuentes, delivered “her best performance ever.” USA Artistic Swimming also reported Alvarez “will continue to be monitored” as the swimmer and medical staff decide whether she will be able to compete in the team final on Friday.

In a similar event last year, Alvarez lost consciousness at the end of a routine with her partner before Fuentes dove in to rescue the swimmer. “Sometimes people pass out because our job is to discover our limits,” the coach said in an interview with “Good Morning America.” “That’s what we do as athletes.”

Categories
Culture

Kendrick Lamar Dedicates Powerful Glastonbury Finale to Women’s Rights Following Roe v. Wade Repeal

kendrick lamar womens rights

Samir HusseinGetty Images

Making his debut at the Glastonbury Festival in Somerset, England as Sunday’s headlining act, rapper Kendrick Lamar gave an astonishing performance, supported by an impressive troupe of dancers and notable accessories⁠—mainly, the Tiffany & Co.-designed titanium crown of thorns that adorned his head.

After delivering his set, Lamar dedicated his powerful finale to women’s rights, following the shocking Supreme Court decision to repeal Roe v. Wade, which had guaranteed access to early stage abortions across the country.

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Huddled at the front of the stage, framed by dancers in black, white, and red, for his concluding song “Savior,” Lamar, with fake blood running down his face, pouring from the 8,000 diamond-encrusted crown of thorns, chanted the line: “They judge you, they judge Christ, Godspeed for women’s rights,” over and over again.

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He wasn’t the only Glastonbury act to put out a message for all the women feeling shocked and upset by the SCOTUS decision.

Ahead of Lamar’s headlining set, Lorde yelled “Fuck the Supreme Court!” during her performance; for her part, Olivia Rodrigo brought British singer Lily Allen on stage to sing “F*** You”, dedicating the song to the Supreme Court.

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Women's Fashion

Hari Nef Embodies Quirky Glamour in the New Coach x Tom Wesselmann Campaign

Coach is something of a fashion unicorn these days. Humble beginnings in mid-1940s New York established the brand as a no-nonsense leather goods maker. That legacy continued throughout the 20th century, and eventually, it was cemented as an American success story, one replete with pebbled leather and the signature “C” monogram print. More recently, however, under the forward-thinking creative direction of Stuart Vevers, Coach is much more than just a tried-and-true bag brand; instead, it’s a global vision of youth, community, and Americana. His vision of modern-day style defies eras and genres, jumping swiftly from ’70s flowy mini dresses to leather bar-inspired grunge looks without any explanation (because really, none is needed). Vevers’s most recent take on utility comes to life in a collection honoring artist Tom Wesselmann.

coach tom wesselmann hari nef campagin

© 2022 Juergen Teller

Despite his misgivings about being associated with the Pop Art movement, Wesselmann created imagery that aligned with similar aesthetics in the early ’60s. His work stands in direct contrast to American iconography with bold, sensual figures and colors that spoke to a rise in both sexual liberation and consumerism. His later work honed in on specific body parts, most notably a red-stained lip with a cigarette, proving provocation isn’t reliant on nudity. Vevers worked closely with Wesselmann’s family and estate to create a collection of ready-to-wear and accessories that both honor his legacy and build on it, to a scintillating effect. Case in point: The infamous cigarette lips are printed on trench coats and the Duffle 27 bag, and various other motifs play out on Charter backpacks, the Rogue 27 bag, T-shirts, and cheeky (er, lippy in this case) keychains.

coach tom wesselman

Coach x Tom Wesselmann

© 2022 Juergen Teller

Vever’s success as creative director is most palpable through his devoted community—Coach Girlies, as I call them—that the brand wholly embraces. Enter Hari Nef, a muse to many and a doll to all. The actress/model/writer/It-girl is a Coach Girlie through and through, having collaborated with Vevers for several seasons now on lookbooks and campaigns. This go-around, Nef, joined by poet and activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal and model Manami Kinoshita, is lensed again by creative juggernaut Juergen Teller in a series of photos that combine her irrefutable charm, the silly seduction of Wesselmann, and irreverent glamour as envisioned by Vevers. In honor of the playful new campaign, we caught up with the jack-of-all-trades remotely as she films Greta Gerwig’s Barbie in London to discuss the new collection, what she’s reading this summer, and what American beauty means to her.


Which oversized motif of Wesselmann’s speaks to you the most?

The red lips smoking a cigarette. A Juul just wouldn’t cut it!

You’re famously well-read. What’s on your summer reading list?

Amor Cringe by K. Allado-McDowell, The Journalist and the Murderer by Janet Malcolm, The Rules of Attraction by Bret Easton Ellis, and 100 Boyfriends by Brontez Purnell.

What does it mean to you to further the uniquely American heritage of Coach?

American luxury, to me, is utility and easy glamour—it’s about living well, rather than some remote idea of “looking chic.” Bonnie Cashin, who began collaborating with Coach in 1962, embodied this spirit of playful utility through her craft; she devised the signature coin purse-style clasps featured on so many Coach designs to this day—not just the bags! I’ve always found that detail—I’ll say it again!—useful, and glamorous. I aspire to utility and glamour.

tom wesselmann coach hari nef juergen teller

Hari Nef for Coach x Tom Wesselmann

© 2022 Juergen Teller

If you could only have one item from the collection, which would it be?

Ask Stuart: I collect trench coats! And what I need is a trench coat with a pair of big red lips exhaling a plume of cigarette smoke. In organic cotton!

What’s the most important thing you learned while working on this campaign?

You can do just about anything in front of Juergen Teller’s lens, and he and his partner Dovile will find a way to sculpt that gesture into something bold and glamorous. Looking cool beats looking pretty every time.

juergen teller coach campaign tom wesselmann hari nef

© 2022 Juergen Teller

Are we going to see Rabbi Jen return in season 2 of And Just Like That…?

I surrender to Michael Patrick King, out of whose brain sprung Rabbi Jen! I’ll always be grateful to him for writing that part for me.

Fair enough. What can you tell us about Barbie?

Barbie was the stuff of my childhood dreams, which gave way to my more recent dreams—and those are cinema dreams. Before stepping onto [Greta Gerwig’s] set, I dreamed with Greta for years—mostly in the back row of the IFC Center with a large popcorn in my lap. From Barbie: expect color and glamour and play. Sounds fun, right?

Coach x Tom Wesselmann is available online at coach.com, in pop-up shops, and via store takeovers globally. Shop some of our favorite pieces here:

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Categories
Women's Fashion

Why Runway Models Don’t Smile

Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen, and Carla Bruni pose with Dontaella Versace at the Versace Spring 2018 show. Photography VIA Imaxtree

As smiles begin to re-emerge on the runways, Annika Lautens explores the evolution of model moods.

“You smile a lot” has become my unofficial tag line — well, it’s not so much my tag line as it is a statement that always seems to find me. While those closest to me have learned to not only accept but also cherish my eternally optimistic outlook (“It’s a quintessential Annika-ism,” declared a friend), strangers are mystified, reacting as if they are seeing a pair of Balenciaga’s bright-green high-heeled Crocs for the first time. “But why?” they imply through their quizzical looks and fidgety body language. In an ironic twist of fate, I suddenly found myself asking the very same question — just not about me. After nearly two decades of sporting pouts and blank stares on the runways, models were seen actually smiling (gasp!) for the Spring 2022 shows.

Giorgio Armani’s muses sauntered blissfully as if on an oceanic stroll; at Chanel, models danced down the catwalk, twirling and hairflipping for the photographers; flashes of pearly whites added to the joie de vivre at Zimmermann; and even Monique Lhuillier and ERL, both of whom chose to release photographs in lieu of putting on shows, managed to capture a few happy faces.

a model in a blue sweater and pants with a shaved head smiles on the runway
Giorgio Armani Spring 2022. Photography via Imaxtree

In my attempt to simultaneously defend my demeanour and uncover the answer to this catwalk conundrum, I discovered that the industry’s penchant for the swing of the pendulum is partially responsible for this fanatical facial transformation: If fashion is heading in one direction, it must eventually go in the opposite.

The same is true for models, whose expressions have swung from aloof to elated over the decades. According to Rebecca Halliday, assistant professor at The Creative School (formerly the faculty of communication and design at Toronto Metropolitan University) and author of The Fashion Show Goes Live, it all began in the 1800s, when Charles Frederick Worth — the inventor of the couture salon presentation — referred to his shows as “mannequin parades.” “The ‘unsmiling model’ is the product ultimately of a European preference for a certain conformity,” she writes in an email. “The runway model is derived from the concept of the actual mannequin, so there’s a sense of blankness that fashion came to expect from these women.”

Just don’t confuse an empty stare for an empty pocket. Stoicism also reflected an air of wealth and status, points out Cathy LeDrew, president of Toronto-based LeDrew Models. LeDrew, who has represented the likes of Chanel Iman, Malin Akerman and Monika Schnarre, says that in the 19th century, models were asked to essentially emulate painted portraiture, where happiness was historically associated with the poor, the mentally ill or the drunk — certainly not great company for couture.

LeDrew says that the rise of ready-to-wear in the 20th century introduced an alternative to the stiff scowl of French houses. Mary Quant, who has been credited with pioneering the ’60s miniskirt, was one of the first to embrace elated expressions and actually instructed her models to smile when they were presenting her designs.

smiling models walk down the chanel spring runway. the model in the forefront has a pixie cut and wears a black and gold blazer with nothing underneath and lots of jewellery
Chanel Spring 2022. Photography via Imaxtree

However, for the transformation from glares to grins to take full effect, it took the work of not one but five gorgeous women: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer and Christy Turlington. Contrary to fashion folklore, these supers didn’t become stars overnight. Dr. Sonya Abrego, design historian and assistant professor at New York’s Parsons The New School, defines the ’80s as “an acceleration of what was already going on in terms of the celebrity and designer culture.” These models reached bona fide pop icon status (with paycheques to match) through unparalleled exposure in magazines, music videos, runways, commercials and billboards. “It changed from the clothes being the most important thing on the runway to the models,” notes LeDrew. The supers’ personality-driven and joy-filled catwalks famously culminated in Versace’s Fall 1991 show, when Evangelista, Campbell, Crawford and Turlington closed the presentation by linking arms and lip-synching George Michael’s “Freedom! ’90,” recreating his iconic music video onstage.

But to paraphrase Sir Isaac Newton, mouths that turn up must eventually come down. Although there’s no definitive moment at which a joyful countenance was outlawed, new deconstructionist designers, teenage angst and the rise of “grunge” and “heroin chic” and its poster child, Kate Moss, eventually led to the model pout we’ve all come to recognize

Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo (creative director for Comme des Garçons) arrived in Paris in the ’80s; their dark and disturbing design mentality diametrically opposed the theatrical opulence that defined the era. “The aesthetic was pared back so it would look almost goofy for models to have a grin or bouncy walk while wearing those clothes,” says Abrego. The trend was also born from the oppositional effects of the ever-swinging pendulum, and flirtatious runway walks were superseded by serious stomps.

a smiling model walks down the chanel spring runway in a black and white cardigan and short black shorts
Chanel Spring 2022. Photography via Imaxtree

But what ultimately cemented the facial transformation was the need for models to return to their mannequin roots and the garments to reclaim centre stage. “Critics around that time were feeling that fashion shows had become a forum for the display of the celebrity rather than a presentation of the clothes themselves,” says Halliday. “So part of the return of the less-performing (but still-performing) model was a stripping down of the fashion show into its core components.”

Perhaps it’s no surprise that as we deal with the bleakness of a global pandemic, the prospect of seeing pearly whites is more irresistible than ever. While spring and summer have come to represent a yearly renaissance of shorter pants, exposed toes and floral prints, in 2022, “they are also celebrating the re-emergence of in-person shows and simultaneously a throwback to a time when fashion felt like it could embrace some excess and spontaneity,” reflects Halliday. “It’s nice to see people’s entire faces again, even if it’s just for a moment!”

It seems that in these models and designers, I’ve finally found a kindred spirit. As I watched 2022’s new muses dance down the Chanel catwalk to a contemporary cover of “Freedom! ’90” by Christine and the Queens, I felt a wave of hope wash over me — not because I’m a fan of George Michael or shoulder pads in general but because, for now, smiling is cool. At least until the next fashion cycle.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Summer issue. Find out more here

Categories
Men's Fashion

Everything You Need To Know About Raw Denim

It’s painful, it’s expensive, it requires serious perseverance and if you’re not careful, it might just become something of an addiction. No, not bondage. This is something far less raunchy, yet every bit as daunting to attempt as a beginner. Welcome to the world of raw denim.

Just like quantum physics, Bitcoin and CrossFit, raw denim is something that you’ve almost certainly heard of, but probably still struggle to fully comprehend. And it’s no wonder. It’s probably the most difficult thing in menswear to wrap your head around – aside from perhaps Kanye West’s enduring status as a style icon.

You see, regular jeans don’t come with an instruction manual, but then regular jeans are just regular jeans. And if you’re the sort of guy who’s into denim trends or always striving to add that extra something to his look, a pair of beautifully worn raw denim jeans could be exactly what you never knew you needed.

What Is Raw Denim?

When you head down to the high street to pick up a new pair of jeans, the ones you take off the hanger will have been through more cosmetic procedures than an ageing Hollywood A-lister. They’ll have been dyed, washed, distressed, shrunk, stretched and all the rest of it, whereas raw denim is subjected to none of this bar the dyeing process. It’s taken straight off the loom (the machine on which the fabric is spun), sewn into something leg- or jacket-shaped and sold to you.

Levi'sLevi’s

So why are you paying several times the price for something that has required less work? The answer is you’re not. Raw denim jeans are often made in small batches, by experienced hands, in high-cost labour countries like Japan and America. On top of that, they’re built to withstand a battering, using premium materials that far surpass the quality of their mass-market equivalents.

UnbrandedUnbranded

What Are the Benefits of Raw Denim?

The true benefits of raw denim lie in the fades and the fit. These jeans are stiff, dark and unforgiving at first, but over time they mould to the owner’s legs, loosen up and develop unique fade patterns in areas of wear (provided you don’t wash them too soon, but more on that later). These tend to include the backs of the knees (honeycombs), thighs (whiskers), the pockets where you keep your wallet/phone and where the denim stacks around the ankles.

“Raw denim enthusiasts appreciate high contrast fading that is achieved by rarely washing their denim,” explains David Giusti, a self-professed denimhead from Blackhorse Lane Ateliers , one of the UK’s finest jeans manufacturers. “This is to keep as much indigo on the garment as possible in low-wear areas, while also trying to wear as much indigo off of the garment in high-wear areas, creating high contrast.”

Raw Denim & Selvedge Denim: What’s The Difference?

Newcomers to the world of denim are often left flummoxed by the two main buzzwords: raw and selvedge. So let’s clear that up once and for all.

Raw Denim

Raw denim, as explained above, is denim that hasn’t undergone any sort of washing or distressing processes, leaving it stiff and full of deep blue indigo dye.

Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim refers to the closed edges on denim that has been spun on a machine known as a shuttle loom. This is usually present as a white strip, visible when the jeans are cuffed or pinrolled , that gives a clean, finished look and prevents the material from unravelling. It’s more expensive to produce and is usually seen as a hallmark of quality denim.

The confusion occurs because raw denim often has a selvedge and vice versa. Although this is not always the case.

Selvedge denim edge

Sanforized Vs. Unsanforized Raw Denim

While raw denim in its truest form comes straight off the loom, a process called sanforization has become popular in recent years, which prevents the signature shrinkage that can make the process of buying raw jeans in the correct size almost as painful as wearing them for the first time.

Sanforized Denim

“Sanforized denim goes through a process of being steamed and stretched that eliminates most of the shrinkage before the fabric is sewn into a pair of jeans,” explains Danny Hodgson, owner of London-based Rivet and Hide , a shop specialising in high-end denim.

Unsanforized Denim

“Unsanforized is loom state: fresh off the loom and has not been through this process. Those of us of a certain age will know this as ‘shrink to fit’.” Unsanforized denim will reduce in size by around 10 per cent so the jeans need a soak to eliminate the shrinkage before wear. This can be done by submerging them in a bathtub filled with lukewarm water for around 30 minutes. For extra crazy points, you can actually wear the jeans while sitting in the bath to ensure a perfect fit for your body type . Once that’s done, hang them outside in the sun by one of the belt loops to ensure they don’t lose their shape. But don’t forget to take them off first.

How to Pick the Right Raw Denim Jeans Size & Fit

All of these variables make picking out a pair of raw jeans that won’t leave you drowning in fabric or cut off your circulation notoriously tricky.

When it comes to how raw denim should fit, keep these tips in mind:

Go Up for Unsanforized, Go Down for Sanforized

As a rule of thumb, if you’re opting for unsanforized then go up one size to accommodate shrinkage. For sanforized, the opposite is true. This type of denim will stretch a fair bit over the first few weeks of wear, mainly in the seat, waist and thighs, so if you like a snug fit you’ll want to take that into account.

Consider the Style

Each raw denim jean will have a different style or fit. From skinny to boot cut, to straight leg and flares, you can find raw denim jeans in a huge variety of styles.

Personal preference aside, style also greatly influences the fit of your jeans.

It should go without saying that skinny jeans will fit much tighter than straight legs, and this is something to keep in mind if you aren’t a fan of wearing restrictive clothing.

Remember, raw denim takes more time to break in, so you want to make sure that you choose a style and fit that will be most comfortable on your body.

Think About the Rise

Aside from the leg style of the jeans, raw denim will come in different rises as well. If you want the jeans to sit lower on your hips, you may spring for a pair of low rise raw denim jeans. Alternatively, if you’d prefer a more retro look and feel, opt for a pair of more high waisted jeans.

When it comes to the rise, you want the jeans to fit snuggly on your body, rather than hanging loosely off your hips.

However, no matter what kind of raw denim jeans you wind up with, they’re bound to fit more tightly than other pairs, as it takes some time to break this rigid material in.

Nudie JeansNudie Jeans

How to Break in Raw Denim Jeans

Now the fun part. Breaking in raw denim isn’t the most pleasant of experiences. Imagine carrying out your day-to-day activities with your legs encased in cardboard and you’ll be halfway there. It’s so grim that A.P.C. even offers ‘Butler’ jeans, which have been broken in by someone else, prior to you buying them.

But stick it out. It may be difficult to believe at first but the same jeans that are making it almost impossible to get up and down stairs today will be the most comfortable pair you’ve ever owned in your life by the same time next year. It will pay off. Have faith. Don’t squat.

Wear Your Raw Denim Often

The fastest and easiest way to break in raw denim jeans is to wear them. Wear them around your house and while running errands to start to stretch them out a bit and form to your body. Eventually, natural creases will begin to appear around the places you sit, around the cuffs of the jeans, and items you have in your pocket.

Prepare for Discomfort

The downside to breaking in raw denim jeans is it isn’t the most comfortable process. The jeans will feel stiff on your body and will likely limit your range of motion in a serious way. You may also experience the dye rubbing off or “bleeding” of color.

For these reasons, you may not want to wear your jeans on a night out or over to your friend’s house that’s filled with white furniture.

Take a few weeks to really get the raw denim comfortable, and after that, you’ll never reach for another pair of jeans again.

A.P.C. Butler Program JeansA.P.C. Butler Program Jeans

Blowouts: What Are They And How Can You Fix Them?

When you rock the same pair of raw denim jeans every single day and never give them a wash to soften them up, it’s inevitable that holes are going to crop up in areas of wear. The most common place for this to occur is at the crotch. Those in the know call this a ‘blowout’.

Blowouts occur when the excess fabric in the crotch of the jeans rubs against itself with each step. Over time, this forms a hole and if you’re new to raw denim, it can be pretty disheartening. But you can postpone it.

Although it’s not really an option early on if you’re on a quest for decent fades, Hodgson says that washing jeans occasionally will help to keep the denim soft, reducing the risk of a blowout. “And avoid riding a bike,” he adds. “That puts a lot of pressure on the crotch.” Blackhorse Lane’s Giusti concurs: “In the battle between a leather or plastic bike seat, and a pair of cotton jeans, the seat will always win.

Nudie JeansNudie Jeans

Veteran denim nerds are well used to blowouts and see them as just another part of the raw denim experience. Every hole is an opportunity for a repair, which means another way to make your jeans slightly different from every other pair out there. Wear it like a badge of honour.

“Once the crotch shows signs of fraying, long before a blowout, get them reinforced with traditional darning or a patch sewn on the inside,” adds Hodgson. “This will really extend the life of the jeans. Blowouts are just part of the ageing process and cotton does wear out eventually.” The best thing is to embrace it.

How Often Should You Wash Raw Denim?

If you’re ever in need of some light entertainment, approach a group of denim nerds, ask them how and when it’s best to wash a pair of raw jeans, then sit back and watch the ensuing argument. The hotly-contended subject of washing is probably the most famous thing about raw denim. But is it really true that you shouldn’t wash your jeans? Well, yes and no is the answer.

For the vast majority of denim enthusiasts, the whole idea of going raw is to achieve bold, high-contrast fades. This is made possible by the excess dye in the fabric rubbing off over time. If you rinse the good stuff out before you’ve had time to break the jeans in properly, those whiskers and honeycombs just aren’t going to happen. Period.

At the same time, never washing your jeans can actually weaken the denim. “All of the sweat, oils and dirt that build up on one’s jeans effectively act as sandpaper, wearing down the cotton,” explains Giusti. “We recommend washing one’s jeans as little as you need to, but if they smell bad, you probably need to give them a wash.” However, if you want those coveted high-contrast fades, you should wear them for a minimum of six months before they go anywhere near a wash. This will allow time for creases to form and dye to fade, meaning that when you do finally clean them, they’ll have lost colour in all the right places.

Nudie JeansNudie Jeans

The Best Ways To Wash Raw Denim

So, when the time rolls around to de-funk your jeans, what are the best methods of denim care?

1. Freezer

Raw denim enthusiasts have a reputation for being a bit nutty. This stereotype is perpetuated by the fact that some of them like to store their legwear alongside their ice cream.

It may seem strange, but there is a logic behind it. During that initial six months to a year of continuous wear, jeans can develop a hum. Some think that putting them in the freezer will kill the odour-causing bacteria and keep them smelling fresh. But the actual science behind this is a little foggy.

2. Spot Cleaning

When you wear the same pair of jeans all the time, it’s inevitable that at some point they’re going to get sauce, a pint or some baby sick on them. The way to remedy this without a full wash is by spot cleaning.

Wet a cloth and dab the affected area, but don’t rub. You want to minimise how much of the dye you take off and scrubbing away like an angry maid is not going to help. Once dry, repeat again as needed.

3. Bathtub

When the time comes to finally wash your jeans, the bathtub method is the safest way to do it.

Fill the tub with lukewarm water, add a small amount of detergent (preferably a specialist product such as Woolite Black), then allow the jeans to soak for 30 minutes. Once you’ve done this, you can give them a gentle scrub to remove any dirt, then take them out and leave them to dry.

4. Washing Machine

For the most hardened of raw denim fanatics, putting a pair of jeans anywhere near a washing machines is an offence grave enough to see you stripped of your selvedge stripes. However, it can be done, as long as it’s handled carefully.

Using Woolite Black detergent and nothing else, place your jeans into a front-loading washing machine and use either the delicate or hand-wash setting. Make sure its cold too – you don’t want to risk any shrinkage.

5. Sea

Just when you thought things couldn’t get any more ridiculous. It may sound farfetched, but one method of washing favoured by some hardcore denimheads is to take your jeans for a dip in the sea.

The idea is to wear them, go for a paddle, come out, rub them with sand and then allow them to dry in the sun. Will it make your jeans look any better? Maybe. Are people likely to try and have you sectioned? Almost certainly.

The Best Raw Denim Brands

Hey, no one said it was going to be easy. As you’ve no doubt twigged by this point, doing raw denim properly takes patience, dedication and a surprising amount of knowhow. But if you’re ready to get faded, these are the brands to have on your radar.

Edwin

Japanese fashion’s long-running obsession with denim began in the early 1950s. But Nippon’s premier manufacturer had already been running its looms long before then.

Today, Japan is a country famed for producing some of the best jeans you can buy and OG label Edwin has had a big role to play. For the best Japanese cloth, served with a hearty dose of heritage, this is the first place to go.

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EDWIN ED-55 RELAXED TAPERED JEAN

A.P.C.

Parisian style is hardly known for its ruggedness or machismo – two qualities so often attributed to raw jeans – which is why it comes as quite a surprise that French label A.P.C. actually makes some of the best entry-level raw denim around.

The New Petit Standard has become nothing short of a wardrobe staple for style-savvy guys and is arguably the ultimate slim-fit jean. Expect pared-back styling, next-level quality and fit that is second to none.

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A.P.C. Petit New Standard Slim-Fit Dry Selvedge Denim Jeans

Levi’s

You can’t have a list of denim brands without mentioning the company that started it all, back at a time when the word ‘jeans’ didn’t even exist and they were simply referred to as ‘waist overalls’ (catchy).

The Levi’s 501 and 511 styles are genuine menswear classics and both are available in Levi’s raw denim – which it calls ‘rigid’. If you like your clothing to come with a story, it doesn’t get much better than this.

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511™ Slim Fit Jeans

Nudie Jeans

Swedish denim brand Nudie was set up in Gothenburg by Maria Erixon, who loved jeans because “the more you wear and repair [them], the more character they have.” It’s a philosophy that is in keeping with the whole idea behind raw denim, so naturally, it’s something that Nudie does well.

Expect slim cuts, signature back pocket branding and prices that won’t leave you trying to negotiate your next phone bill payment using an assortment of beans and pocket fluff.

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NUDIE JEANS Grim Tim raw slim-leg jeans

Samurai

Founded in 1998, Japanese brand Samurai makes some of the most coveted raw denim on the market. With only a handful of global stockists, the products are notoriously tricky to get hold of, making them all the more enticing to fade-hungry denimheads.

The selvedge line on each pair of Samurais features a single strand of silver lamé running through it to represent the glint of a samurai sword blade. And if that’s not the coolest thing you’ve ever heard, we’re not sure what is.

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Samurai Jeans

Unbranded

A sub-brand of renowned raw denim peddlar Naked And Famous, Unbranded offers more affordable jeans for those looking to dip their toes into the world of unwashed denim. Following a motto of “No branding, no washes, no embroidery, no ad campaigns and no celebrities,” Unbranded is about as bare bones as they come. And with jeans made in the same factory as A.P.C., you can’t really go wrong.

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unbranded raw denim jeans

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

The UK is known for many things but high-end raw denim has never really been one of them. Well, not until East London’s Blackhorse Lane Ateliers set up shop anyway.

The Walthamstow establishment may only be two years old but its team of skilled craftsmen and women boast a huge degree of experience and a love for their trade that runs deep. Blackhorse Lane even runs classes where participants can make their own pair of jeans. And given that raw denim is all about individuality, it doesn’t really get much more personalised than that.

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blackhorse lane raw denim jeans

Tellason

Japan takes most of the glory for anything raw denim-related these days but the truth is that the Americans aren’t half bad either.

Tellason jeans are woven in San Francisco, using the finest Cone Mills denim from North Carolina. Even the leather waistband patch is made by Tanner Goods in Oregon. If ever there was a pair of all-American jeans, this is probably it.

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TELLASON Ladbroke Grove Slim Tapered Selvage Denim Jeans 101 03

Naked And Famous

Poking fun at celebrity-obsessed culture and ‘glamour brands’ that price jeans per celebrity endorsement as opposed to quality, Naked and Famous is a brand that takes its craft very seriously.

You won’t find any high-profile ad campaigns or gimmicks here, but what you will find is the best-quality denim, premium construction and jeans made by people who are passionate about what they do.

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NAKED & FAMOUS DENIM Dirty Fade Selvedge Denim Jeans

Rag & Bone

While it may not be a label that deals exclusively in denim, New York-born Rag & Bone has earned a reputation among legwear lovers for the quality and craftsmanship of its jeans. It’s no wonder people love them. Rag & Bone’s jeans are clean, great fitting, well-made and woven from high-quality materials. They might not be heavier than a small child, but the brand’s skinny jeans in particular look great and are built to last.

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rag & bone raw denim skinny jeans

Evisu

It may be best-known for the giant, painted gull logo that adorns so many pairs of its jeans, but Japanese label Evisu also makes some knockout raw denim.

The Osaka-born company has been doing its thing since 1991 and in that time has established itself as the label of choice for the hip-hop community. If bold logos and in-your-face detailing are your thing then a pair of Evisus will be right up your street.

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evisu raw denim dragon detail jeans

Iron Heart

A brand designed by bikers, for bikers. Iron Heart is a biker brand through and through and has a reputation as such in its native Japan. However, here in the west, its rugged, raw, selvedge denim has found a home in the luxury jean market.

The brand is well-known for its seriously heavy denim weights, so make sure you’re prepared for a painful break-in process before you take the plunge.

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Iron heart Straight Cut Selvedge Jean

Categories
Fitness

This Old Navy Activewear Set Is So Comfy, I Wore It on a 20-Hour Road Trip

When it comes to activewear (and just about any piece of clothing), comfort is everything to me. Chances are that I won’t wear it unless it fits just right. This is especially true of sports bras and workout leggings, which I often find to be either too tight or too loose. For that reason, I tend to stick to brands that I know fit me perfectly. Among these is Old Navy, which is no stranger to rave reviews from fitness-lovers. So when I recently came across the Light Support PowerSoft Textured-Rib Sports Bra ($33) and the matching High-Waisted PowerSoft Rib-Knit Side-Pocket 7/8-Length Leggings ($45), I couldn’t resist adding them to my shopping cart. They’re definitely more fashion-forward than the workout pieces I usually choose from the brand, and I was excited to wear something other than my go-to black leggings ($33) and matching sports bra. Ahead, find my honest thoughts on the set.

What I Like About This Activewear Set

This activewear set is undeniably stylish — it’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen in Old Navy’s activewear section. I was first drawn to the textured rib design and the sports bra, which boasts a scoop neck and pieced, contoured seams at the bodice. The details make the set look like it’s from a high-end activewear retailer. The fit is weightless. Since it has light compression, it doesn’t feel skin-tight — which, in my opinion, is the recipe for ultracomfy workout clothes.

What’s Worth Noting

The sports bra offers light support (plus a shelf bra with removable cups), and both the sports bra and leggings offer lightweight compression. I put this set to the test by wearing them on a long run, and honestly, I wouldn’t do it again. As someone who sweats a ton during exercise, I could see major sweat marks through the outfit. Nevertheless, I’m still infatuated with the look and feel of this set and will continue wearing it on low-impact days when I know I’m not going to be sweating through my clothes (i.e., during hot-girl walks). If you can relate to the struggle, I recommend scooping up this set in the black option.

Both the sports bra and leggings have overwhelmingly positive ratings, but shoppers warn that the bra doesn’t offer major support for bigger chests. (That’s not to say that it won’t still look really chic, though).

Who Is This Activewear Set Best For?

This activewear set is best for those engaging in low-impact exercise, running errands, or lounging around. The brand agrees: the website states, “Ideal for yoga, Pilates, barre & everyday activities.”

  • Both the leggings and sports bra come in sizes XS-4X.
  • Both the leggings and sports bra are made of a durable and stretchy combination of 77 to 79 percent nylon and 21 to 23 percent spandex.
  • The leggings have diagonal pockets that can fit your phone, keys, and more.
  • This activewear set comes in a total of five colors: black (Black Jack), lavender (Wanderlust), muted teal (Ocean Shale), and off-white (Wish Bone).
  • Machine-wash the leggings on cold, and tumble dry on a low setting to keep them in tip-top shape; machine-wash the sports bra on cold on a gentle cycle and tumble dry on low.

Rating:

Image Source: POPSUGAR Photography / Marisa Petrarca

Categories
Culture

Jessica Matten of Dark Winds Is Ready to Lead the First Indigenous Superhero Movie

When Jessica Matten sits down at a bustling Mediterranean coffee shop in Midtown, she passes me a bundle of sage by way of welcome. “I know,” she says, hiding neither her wince nor her smile. “I’m so traditional.”

She’s here with a game plan, an ulterior motive, one that’s neither malicious nor well-hidden. If the Dark Winds star is to accomplish even half of the long list of goals she’s set for her career, she’s going to need to reach a lot of people, fast. In theory, speaking to the press should be a good way to do that. And she’s genuinely happy to answer intimate questions about her childhood, her parents, the 26 different homes she’d lived in by the time she turned 21. She only remains precious about her age; she’d like that detail off-the-record. She’ll allow no one to set the clock for her.

“I do have a motive,” she reveals midway through our conversation. “I do. It’s—I want to be the first Native superhero. I do. Straight up.”

Currently, Matten, an Indigenous actress of Red River Metis-Cree and Chinese descent, is playing undoubtedly one of the best characters in the excellent new AMC series Dark Winds, which was just renewed for a second season. Set in the 1970s-era Navajo Nation and adapted from Tony Hillerman’s novels, the show follows tribal police officers Joe Leaphorn (Zahn McClarnon) and Jim Chee (Kiowa Gordon), as well as Matten’s Bernadette Manuelito, charged with investigating a double homicide and the strange events surrounding it. Show creator Graham Roland and executive producers Robert Redford and George R.R. Martin infuse the drama with a soulful tension and a real sense of place, but it’s the actors who make Dark Winds feel grounded beyond its trappings. Matten, with her hair slicked back in Bernadette’s signature bun, is both tough and endearing, a no-frills workhorse who still respects her own spirituality when a colleague does not. In person, Matten’s edges are smoothed over, her hair gently draping her face as she picks up a bottle of green juice, but Bernadette’s sense of purpose is all there behind the actress’s eyes.

jessica matten as sgt bernadette manuelito in dark winds

Michael Moriatis/Stalwart Productions/AMC

It’s not difficult to understand why Martin took such a quick liking to Matten on the set of Dark Winds. After a less-than-stellar first impression—Matten let it slip that she’d read neither the Dark Winds books nor Martin’s own Game of Thrones series—the two discovered a communal appreciation of ferocious female characters. Soon enough, she was sharing margaritas with the author on his patio, chiding him for drinking too much sugar. “Everyone knows we get together and I go, ‘George…’ and he goes—” Matten raises her eyebrows. “And then we start swearing like pirate hookers together.”

Born in Canada, Matten bounced around throughout the country for most of her young life, spending numerous years on numerous Indigenous reserves but also living overseas, including in Hong Kong and Korea. “I never thought I was going to be an actor, but my mother, you know, she was a mother on welfare and she wanted to educate her children through cinema,” Matten says. “So we weren’t allowed to watch cartoons. None of that.” Instead, she and her brother subsided on a steady diet of classic film and television from the likes of Sidney Poitier, Katherine Hepburn, Charlie Chaplin, and Buster Keaton. (She watched the entirety of Roots when she was around the age of seven.) By the time she reached her teen years, Matten understood the power entertainment held over a community’s conception of another culture, and she understood just as readily how such stereotypes had perpetuated the generations of trauma suffered by her own people.

According to the “Hollywood Diversity Report” released by the University of California Los Angeles in 2020, Indigenous men claimed 0.5 percent of all “top film roles” in 2019; no Native women landed any of these roles, nor did any Native directors helm these projects. Outside of Hollywood, this lack of representation exacerbates an already dire situation: For centuries in North America, Indigenous communities have been routinely marginalized, leading to extremely high rates of poverty, sickness, suicide, and domestic violence when compared to non-Hispanic white communities.

Matten figured, if she wanted to make a difference in Native lives, she’d need to change perceptions nationally, if not globally. Working with her mother, she’d do some modeling and, someday, become a CEO at an advertising firm. Or, perhaps, she’d work for a magazine. (While in London as a 21-year-old, she mailed numerous editors at ELLE UK a postcard with an example of her modeling work, with which she wore the staff down until they finally brought her on in the fashion closet.) When the late-aughts recession rolled around, she Googled the biggest industries in Vancouver and discovered a prominent film business. She then Googled, “how to become an actor.”

Although she graduated from the University of Alberta with a human ecology degree, Matten’s work has never settled into a neat, singular category. As a young adult, she assisted her divorced parents, modeling with her mother and running a business alongside her father while also working in high-risk Native group homes. Today, beyond acting, she runs an Indigenous fitness and wellness company, a production company, and an Indigenous film academy. She’s just flown to New York City for our interview, and she reveals it was her 25th flight of the year since January. Matten is kinetic, a gathering storm cloud restrained only by a seemingly bottomless resolve.

“I didn’t realize, my entire life, I’ve kind of already been in the business,” she says. “Because, as an actor, it’s kind of like the circus, right? We live out of our suitcases for the next job, whatever country or city you have to shoot in. So it was kind of weird how that’s been my life.” She adds that, not only did her childhood take her from one town to the next, but also through different tax brackets. Matten went from “digging in dumpster cans at 11 years old for furniture” to, at 17, setting up a building company with her father, “and he did extremely well, very, very quickly,” she says, Suddenly, “it was like this whole other lifestyle.”

jessica matten as sgt bernadette manuelito in dark winds

Michael Moriatis/Stalwart Productions/AMC

After starring in a series of shorts and guest roles, including as the lead in Elle-Máijá Tailfeathers’s short film, A Red Girl’s Reasoning, Matten hit her stride in the Jason Momoa-led Apple TV+ series Frontier, and as star and associate producer for the Canadian television drama Tribal. But Dark Winds is her most prominent and well-received role to date, and there’s little doubt it could serve as a catalyst on her superhero campaign.

Right, that: the game plan. The, as Matten puts it, “Dr. Evil scheme.” She swears her goal of leading a Marvel or DC film—and, mind you, she wants it to be Marvel or DC—isn’t about vanity, though her case wouldn’t be less legitimate even if it were. She believes she needs this role, only for the floodgates it would open. It’s not about personal preference; it’s just smart politics.

“The reason I say Marvel and superheroes…” Matten starts. “You know how the media has changed. It’s like, [the comic-book genre] is one of the most impactful genres these days. In my opinion, Marvel and DC [are] the satellites to the entire world. For whatever reason, that has become a thing. And, you know, do I prefer indie films and all that? Yeah. But I really admire and respect how those two studios have been able to really launch careers for many, many people.”

But Matten doesn’t want to play just any Native superhero shooting pixie dust out of her palms. She wants to star in a film like the latest Batman—something gritty and grounded, “something that’s true and realistic to Native culture, being a Native woman,” she says. “Because the reality is, as Native women, the circumstances we go through on a regular basis are hard. Five times, 10 times more tough than what, like, an average person goes through.”

“The reality is, as Native women, the circumstances we go through on a regular basis are hard.”

And she isn’t afraid to put this desire out into the universe, both from a spiritual and a practical perspective. She believes in old-school manifesting. She also believes in the power of the insular media world, the power of dropping juicy information to a group of capital-hungry move-makers in Hollywood. She’ll use the system if she needs to, so long as it gets her one step closer to helping her people.

“I’ve hit a point in my life where I’m okay to just say it out loud, because you can say these things with humility and compassion and humbleness,” Matten says. “But I also feel, as a woman, we don’t got time to be the nice, placating…Be quiet about it.” She adds, “You need to be okay with saying what you want. And I want [to lead a superhero film] because, again, the ripple effect is—it impacts my community deeply. And it also gives me the platform to get the right partners to partner with me and help me get the resources that our people really, really need.”

She’s already got the training down; Matten does most of her own stunts and combat fighting. Now she just needs Hollywood to see her. She already has contacts at Marvel, strings she’s weaving between her fingers. But Dark Winds is the first one she’ll pull for now, a well-crafted series with a sophomore season on its docket and a largely Indigenous team orchestrating its magic both on-camera and behind the scenes. She’s made contacts here, too, including Roland and Redford and Martin and director Chris Eyre, all of whom saw Matten’s work as Bernadette and expanded the role to fit her magnanimity.

And in moments of pain, when the immense weight of just how much change she wants to make overwhelms her, she turns to her medicine woman. “I have my medicine woman who’s very dear to me, close to me, who uplifts me,” she says. “But also, I don’t know. Sometimes I feel like I’m connected to a switchboard, if that makes sense. It’s just like—I find the energy, through moments of pure exhaustion.” Matten’s only on step 2 of a 10-step plan. But no one need worry. She still believes.

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Women's Fashion

Amazon Is Having a Secret Sale on Designer Clothing Right Now

Amazon is a treasure trove of hidden gems. Nearly every day, it seems as if another beloved name brand pops up on the platform, or we come across a new in-house label whose stylish-yet-affordable offerings quickly go viral. But unbeknownst to many, the mega e-tailer has an under-the-radar section of luxury apparel and accessories that’s brimming with steep discounts.

Called the Premium Brands Outlet, it has more than 800 designer markdowns up to 64 percent off in a range of categories. Whether you’re looking for a crisp white summer dress, a la Ulla Johnson, or pair of breezy sandals from beek, you can find what you need, as the section is quite easy to navigate. You can sort by brand and style. Plus, you even have the option to filter items that fall under Amazon’s Try Before You Buy program, so you can feel fully confident before making a purchase.

Since we pride ourselves on simplifying your shopping experience, we scoured through the countless pages of offerings to bring you 16 of our favorite styles worth adding to your closet. Need some lightweight trousers that are super versatile? We found the perfect linen style from Club Monaco for that. Or, are you eager to up your accessories game this season? Try some trendy, sculptural frames by Versace or Marc Jacobs’ classic Hobo bag, both of which are reduced by over $170.

Get all the details ahead, and visit the Premium Brands hub page to view the entire selection of savings.

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Categories
Women's Fashion

Roe v. Wade and Fashion’s Fight for Freedom

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

The regressive decision comes at a time when fashion has never embraced individual freedom more.

In many ways, designers are signalling the dawn of a new age. Dopamine dressing, the metaverse, gender fluid clothing and other trends have liberated fashion from its stuffy traditions. But the decision to overturn Roe v. Wade has turned back the clock to a time when few people had such bodily autonomy.

The U.S. Supreme Court reversed the 1973 landmark ruling that legalized abortion nationwide on June 24. As a result, abortion rights will now be determined at state level, with several anti-choice lawmakers already moving to have the procedure banned.

It shouldn’t be lost on us that while reproductive rights have regressed 50 years, fashion has never been more pro-choice. From unconventional combinations to open displays of sexuality, today, freedom is central to the fashion landscape.

Take the recent runways at Men’s Paris Fashion Week, which were a celebration of unrestricted dressing. Louis Vuitton’s vibrant yellow catwalk referenced experimental styling with models in cartoonish illustrations and 3D-embroidered designs. Designer Thom Browne’s collection was an ode to wild self-expression with low-slung pants and exposed jockstraps. And labels like EgonLab and Prada made similar statements on genderless fashion with the use of micro-mini shorts.

The SCOTUS decision to limit bodily freedom comes at a time when expressions of sexuality are heavily referenced on the runway. Whether it’s Blumarine’s ultra-cropped skimpy silhouettes or Miu Miu’s wholehearted embrace of the micro-mini skirt, sensuality is central to modern-day fashion imagery. Designer Mowalola Ogunlesi took this theme to the next level with her Spring 2023 ready-to-wear show. The collection reclaimed unabashed sexuality and censored body parts, starring restrictive fetishwear, low-rise bottoms and explicit cutouts.

As far as fashion is concerned, bodily autonomy is “in.” We’re in the age of unrestricted maximalism, with popular aesthetics rejecting the constraints of traditional rules and embracing the experimental nature of personal fashion.

This type of more is more dressing — filled with colourful patterns, mixed textures and kitschy accessories — champions the idea that your body is your own, and you can dress yourself up however you want. In our current political climate, this mindset now seems radical.

Even before Roe v. Wade was overturned, fashion had been in a flirtationship with freedom. Over the past few months, catwalks referenced the restrictions of COVID-19, the physical impacts of climate change and the human rights disaster that is the war in Ukraine.

And now, as the world continues to open up, designers are embracing the symbolism of freedom even more. But with this loss of reproductive rights, the concept of liberation in pop culture has taken on a deeper meaning.

In music alone, the biggest names are those who represent unapologetic authenticity. Harry Styles is praised for his gender-bending style. Lizzo is known for her ultra-glamorous red carpet looks and self-empowerment anthems. Lil Nas X is always pushing the fashion boundaries as an openly queer rap artist.

2021 fashion
Photography by Getty Images

Despite how grim things may seem, fashion’s unflinching freedom train reflects larger cultural attitudes. In fact, recent polls found that most Americans and Canadians are pro-choice, proving that this political ruling does not reflect the majority of the population.

Of course, this archaic decision won’t end abortions. It will just limit access to safe abortions, specifically for those who are low-income, single mothers, trans and racialized. And the impacts are far-reaching. In Canada, though abortions are effectively legal, they’re far from equally accessible. With a reportedly substantial number of anti-choice MPs across the country, the decision to overturn Roe v. Wade has already rekindled conservative talking points around abortion here, too.

This decision is rooted in restricting freedom, with suggestions that same-sex marriage and access to contraception could be on the chopping block next.

As reproductive rights take a heartbreaking hit, fashion may seem frivolous. But using clothing to express bodily autonomy is in and of itself an act of resistance. Because while fashion reflects reality, it also has the ability to harness the power of imagination. In this case, fashion is presenting the fantasy of freedom. Hopefully the real world will catch up.

Categories
Men's Fashion

The Best Suede Sneakers For Men

Men’s suede sneakers: they’re about as reliable in bad weather as an umbrella made of bog paper, are a nightmare to clean, and if you spill a glass of Rioja on them, it’s basically game over.

And yet, even despite boasting nowhere near the same level of practicality or, well, wine-proofness as their leather counterparts, they remain one of the most important footwear investments a man can make.

Just ask American singer Carl Perkins, who wrote his famous ode to a pair of blue suede shoes. Fuzzy footwear is light, comfortable, and if you know how to care for it, fatal stains and water damage can actually be avoided altogether.

From what to wear with them to the brands making the best ones – here’s everything you’ve ever wanted to know about buying a pair of the best suede sneakers for men.

Why You Need A Pair Of Men’s Suede Sneakers

People often talk about suede and leather as if the two are completely different materials. They’re not. Both are made from cowhide, but whereas leather (the exterior skin of the animal) has a smooth finish, suede (the inner layer of the skin) has a more velvety feel. Each has its pros and cons, and though it’s true that suede can be more susceptible to staining than smooth leather, it’s also less prone to scuffs and tends to be easier to break in.

oliver cabell suede sneakers
Oliver Cabell

Then there are the good looks. Suede has a more porous finish which holds dye well, meaning brighter and more vibrant colors are achievable than with other materials. This is something German sportswear giant Adidas has capitalized on, with three crisp white stripes set against a vivid suede backdrop having become something of a trademark in its own right.

The heightened risk staining is what tends to put buyers off. However, hydrophobic products from the likes of Liquiproof, Crep Protect and Jason Markk, which provide a sort of water and stain-repellent forcefield, have all but eliminated this problem. Now you can stand up, eating a hotdog and wearing a pair of men’s suede sneakers, safe in the knowledge that should any mustard escape, it’ll just roll right off the surface of your footwear.

How To Wear Men’s Suede Sneakers

Perhaps the most redeeming feature of men’s suede sneakers is how easy they are to style. Find a smart enough pair (low profile, block colour, minimal detailing), and there’s no reason they can’t be paired with tailoring in the form of cropped trousers, a (preferably unstructured) suit jacket and a roll neck, T-shirt or polo shirt.

At the other end of the spectrum, a pair of classic, retro sneakers in suede make excellent Saturday afternoon pub attire when worn as part of a casual outfit with jeans, a crew neck sweatshirt and hooded jacket.

Mango Man Men's Suede Sneakers
Mango

The secret to getting any look right is simply to ensure you don’t try to dress up shoes that are fundamentally casual. That means a big thumbs down to a pair of men’s suede running shoes with a black tie, but you probably knew that already. Smarter suede sneaker styles, on the other hand, can be dressed up or dressed down to whatever extent you see fit. Just keep the colours simple, the detailing minimal and you can’t go far wrong.

The Best Brands For Men’s Suede Sneakers

From tailoring-friendly options at the premium end of the market (and your bank balance) to terracewear essentials built for the stands, these are the brands to turn to when it comes to shopping for a pair of men’s suede sneakers.

CLAE

Where sophistication doesn’t meet pretension, these CLAE suede sneakers can double as a pair of suede loafers if you’re not looking carefully enough. The Los Angeles sneaker brand has been elevating the sneaker game with their minimalist and eco-friendly designs since 2001, and these suede stunners continue this legacy with their following. They are also wallet friendly, allowing you to stock up on a few sturdy pairs you can rotate through the seasons.

Prioritizing quality and comfort, CLAE has a focus on recycled materials, vegan leathers, and innovative practices which have set them at the forefront of the sneaker game in LA and beyond.

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clae suede sneaker for men

Adidas

The Samba, the Gazelle, the Campus the Trimm Trab; we could go on. As any sneakerhead worth his salt knows, Adidas has made and continues to make some of the most iconic men’s suede sneakers on the market.

Since 1949, the brand’s trademark blend of soft suede and white leather stripes has been a common sight on sports courts, football terraces and the feet of many a style tribe. Look out for the classics, or for something a little more unique, check out what the archive-inspired Spezial line has to offer.

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Adidas gazelle

Puma

Puma is so good at making men’s suede sneakers that its most iconic footwear silhouette is simply called the ‘Suede Classic’. But don’t be fooled, that doesn’t mean the brand’s other furry styles aren’t just as worthy of your hard-earned.

There’s the sporty, retro goodness of the Roma, the sleek styling of the Basket Classic and the track-and-field-ready Easy Rider. All are solid suede choices from one of the biggest names in sportswear. What more could you want?
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PUMA SUEDE 90681 OG

Axel Arigato

High-top suede sneakers? The minimalist-driven brand takes on their rendition of Converse and makes them high fashion with clean lines, natural coloring, and sustainable uniqueness that’s worth bragging about. Using tried and true vintage aspects mixed with the eagerness to create a comfortable experience, this high-top suede sneaker will elevate your fashion game and add that pop of texture your wardrobe craves.

And if the light colorway is cause for concern, you can scoop up the same pair in black, or opt for one of the dozen other suede sneaker designs Axel Arigato is famous for.

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axel arigato suede sneakers for men

Common Projects

Nobody is about to argue that £300 isn’t a ludicrous amount of money to drop on a pair of sneakers. Still, if you were planning on skipping a few meals in order to do just that, a pair of Common Projects would serve as some pretty good motivation as to why you should.

The American-Italian footwear brand is best-known for its buttery calfskin leather, but suede variations of its minimal sneakers are every bit as appealing. If you were looking for a men’s suede sneaker that does it all and then some, you just found it.

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COMMON PROJECTS Original Achilles Suede Sneakers

A Day’s March

You know what they say about Swedes and suede? In this case, a lot. The Marching Sneaker Suede from A Day’s March is made from premium Spanish suede with a clean design that complements any type of outfit. Throw on a pair for a casual day out or add them to a more formal get-up to help dress it down.

Available in a whopping five colors, ranging from olive to desert to storm blue, there’s an option for every gent’s wardrobe. While the flaws of this sneaker are few and far between, they do run large so it’s recommended to size down.

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a day's march suede sneaker

Nike

When it comes to footwear design, Nike’s focus on pushing the envelope has meant that it’s much more common to see sneakers made from woven recycled goat hair. Nevertheless, men’s suede sneakers from the brand do exist, and they are worth parting with your cash for.

For classic retro styling, look to models such as the Blazer or the Bruin. Or, for something a little more modern, check out premium versions of some of the brand’s Air Max models, which often feature an all-out suede construction.

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nike suede sneakers

Oliver Cabell

When a millennial takes a stab at creating and designing sneakers and accessories, you know the creation will be unique. Founded in 2016 by a guy in his late 20s with zero fashion experience, Oliver Cabell was born out of a serious passion for fine design. Built on a unique business model, this sneaker brand bypasses traditional retail markups and instead provides the product direct to consumer, allowing the average Joe to revel in luxury footwear and accessories.

Calling on some old-school visuals, their best-selling Low 1 sneaker in suede gives off a rustic, lived-in feel. It looks like you’ve worn the sneakers already (in the best way possible), providing an air of comfort and laidback sophistication. Sometimes you want footwear that looks like you actually enjoy wearing them and Oliver Cabell hits the mark with these kicks.

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oliver cabell suede sneakers for men

New Balance

No one makes men’s suede running shoes quite like New Balance. The Boston-based firm’s ultra-comfortable suede sneakers have mass appeal for good reason, loved by European cool kids and North American dads alike.

For the highest-quality options, look for the ‘Made in the UK/USA’ styles. Yes, they’ll set you back a little bit more than the mainline versions, but you’ll ultimately be getting something that’ll work better and last longer. Better value in the long run.

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New Balance 991 Made in England

Uniform Standard

With a long history in the sneaker industry (18 years to be exact), two veteran designers teamed up in 2018 to create a wholly recycled sneaker brand. Working from their East London studio, Uniform Standard’s creations are making a splash, and these grey suede sneakers are right there at the forefront.

Classic, comfortable, and ready to go with anything, this is a solid pair of shoes to have in your closet, especially if you dig the retro basketball profile, elevated with premium Italian suede. This is one pair of shoes that you can take from the court to the streets seamlessly.

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uniform standard suede sneakers for men

Converse

Converse has always been a name synonymous with canvas footwear, but with advancements in footwear technology in the 1960s, the brand was forced to up its game and introduce something new to the game.

This resulted in the One Star, a simple suede sneaker with a low-top design that quickly became a hit on basketball courts and, later down the line, skateparks. It’s the only shoe from the American brand that was exclusively made from suede and continues to be a stylish, reliable and wallet-friendly option to this day.

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One Star Premium Suede

Vans

Californian skate brand Vans knows better than most the practical advantages of suede construction. The material has long been used by the label to provide skateboarders with increased durability and better grip when performing tricks.

That’s the practical side of it, anyway, but it also looks good. For proof, just look to the likes of the Sk8 Hi or the Old Skool, both of which perfectly illustrate Vans’ knack for making suede sneakers that can stand the test of time.

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SK8-HI SHOES

Golden Goose

Golden Goose has done the impossible. That is, create a highly successful brand around the concept of selling shoes that look like they’ve already run 10 marathons, for 10 times the price of a regular sneaker.

Still, there’s just something about them. We know it’s ridiculous, but also, we kind of want a pair. Hey, if you can afford it then why not?
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GOLDEN GOOSE Ball Star Distressed Suede And Leather Sneakers

Aprix

Take one former Supreme creative director, a hint of beachy styling, a dash of minimalism and strain it all through a skate-culture-shaped colander and what do you get? Well, something that tastes a lot like Aprix.

This relatively new footwear brand works exclusively in brightly colored suede, and we defy anyone to be in anything other than a fantastic mood when they’re wearing a pair. If not because of the vibrant colors, then just due to the instant style points earned.

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APRIX Suede low-top trainers

Categories
Fitness

Orlando Bloom’s Workout Routine Is Impressive For More Than One Reason

HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA - NOVEMBER 30: Orlando Bloom  attends UNICEF at 75 in Los Angeles at NeueHouse Los Angeles on November 30, 2021 in Hollywood, California. (Photo by Vivien Killilea/Getty Images for UNICEF USA)

Image Source: Getty / Vivien Killilea

Orlando Bloom shared his upper-body workout routine with his six million Instagram followers on Monday. The actor’s workout routine is impressive — in the videos, he works his biceps, abs, and back with a trainer, and his grimaces are enough to show that the workout is a tough one. His caption further proved how remarkable this workout really is: the Pirates of the Caribbean star reflected on how far he’s come physically, writing, “I broke my back when I was 19 and they said I’d never walk again.”

It’s not the first time Bloom has spoken about the life-changing and near-fatal injury, which took place more than 20 years ago. Last August, he posted a throwback image of himself biking while wearing a back brace, captioning the upload, “That’s me in my back brace circa 1998 about 3months after I fell 3floors and crushed my spine, narrowly escaping death and paralysis…grateful everyday for my limbs that allow me to push my limits and live life on my edge (safer now).”

Bloom’s latest post includes three separate video clips. In the first, he completes bicep curls with a weighted EZ curl bar, and his form is solid: the father of two brought the bar above his chest and back down to his hips, focusing on his breathing and keeping his upper arms anchored while curling the weight up to his shoulder level.

In the second clip, Bloom, who’s engaged to longtime partner Katy Perry, takes to the floor to strengthen his core with an ab wheel, which works the abdomen, back, and arms at the same time. The workout is great for overall stability, and as evidenced by the intense focus on Bloom’s face, while it looks doable, it’s anything but easy.

The third clip in the carousel showed Bloom demonstrating how to use a lat pulldown machine to strengthen and tone his back muscles, showing off a scar he sustained from his injury at the same time. As he finishes up his reps, you can hear a second voice — possibly his personal trainer — urging him on. Commenters did, too: Chelsea Handler commented to say, “Oh, well, excuse us! Somebody is walking.”

Resilience is a skill we can all benefit from. After all, it’s why we often turn to quotes like “if at first you don’t succeed, dust yourself off and try again” and “fall seven times, stand up eight.” For Bloom, these are more than trite sayings — he lives it, as evidenced by his strenuous gym regimen.

Check out Bloom’s moves above.

Categories
Culture

Where to Get That Cute Tie-Dye Hoodie on Only Murders in the Building

People just can’t seem to get enough of Hulu’s Only Murders in the Building and we’re not surprised. How could you not be totally sucked in by a spooky and funny murder-mystery show with Selena Gomez, Steve Martin, and Martin Short as the leads? Short answer: It’s impossible.

Aside from the star-studded cast and the eerie storyline, this series is also such a standout because of the fashion. Gomez’s character Mabel serves head-turning looks episode after episode. Charles and Oliver—aka Martin and Short—are always looking spiffy. And even the ever-so mysterious Tie-Dye Guy (played by actor Aaron Dominguez), makes his simple, colorful hoodie look so stylish. I mean, the sweatshirt underneath the black peacoat moment?! Très chic…but also super sketchy. IYKYK.

only murders in the building

CRAIG BLANKENHORN/HULU

And if you’ve been itching to get a fun hoodie of your own ever since you saw Tie-Dye Guy rock it, I’ve got some good news and some bad news for you. Unfortunately, we’re not sure where we can get the exact hoodie from the show. We’ll let you know where you can buy it when we get the deets, but until then, we found a really good dupe from Nordstrom Rack that’s affordable, super cute, and cropped.

Nordstrom Rack

BELLA+CANVAS Crop Tie Dye Hoodie

If you’re not really feeling that one though, I gathered up some other options that have the same cool design, but with a twist. Plus, these ones won’t break the bank.

I’d get to shopping stat because these hoodies will for sure sell like hot cakes once season 2 premieres on June 28. So make sure you snag one for yourself before they sell out and to mark your calendar for the big day!

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Categories
Beauty

Isamaya Ffrench Just Launched Her Own Makeup Line

If you’ve ever seen a beauty look from the runway and Zoomed in, amazed, confused, mystified–the odds are that Isamaya Ffrench was the brains behind it. A legend in the editorial industry, Ffrench has worked with models like Bella Hadid and Rihanna for campaigns and magazine covers. She was most recently Byredo’s Creative Director before stepping down in March of 2022, helping create versatile, top-shelf-worthy products for the perfume brand. But if you scroll on her Instagram for more than half a second, you’ll know that her makeup talents would be just as fitting on Stranger Things as they would be on the runway.

Now, Ffrench is back to creating makeup products with the launch of her namesake brand, Isamaya Beauty.

Courtesy

Housed in bottles that are topped with what could either be a septum ring or a nipple ring, depending on your outlook, Ffrench has created five versatile makeup products, all in reusable packaging. “I’m creating my own world for a new generation of makeup lovers,” Ffrench said in a statement. “I want to inspire people and show them that there are other ways to approach beauty. To liberate them from the ideals of the mainstream and to be more authentic by proposing something more artistic and highly visual. So now you can identify with a concept or community that isn’t bound by commercial ideas of beauty.”

Industrial Colour Pigments

Isamaya Beauty
isamaya.com

$115.00

This first collection, called INDUSTRIAL, contains a 14-shade eyeshadow palette packed with alien-esque tones, from greens to golds to shimmer violets. The launch also includes a black lengthening mascara that uses the brand’s new patented latex technology. For bold brows, Isamaya Beauty launched a clear brow gel, which acts like a laminating treatment, to achieve the soap-brow trend quickly. There is also a burgundy tinted lip serum, which plumps the lips. Lastly, the collection features a slightly shimmering serum, which can act as a primer, a highlighter, and a skincare product thanks to its cocktail of hyaluronic acid, castor oil, and glycerin. All of these products are now available to pre-order from isamaya.com.

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Categories
Women's Fashion

Tenniscore Looks to Wear On and Off the Court

It’s not just an aesthetic — it’s a lifestyle.

Tennis season is here! Like many people, I picked up tennis during the pandemic to get some exercise and spend time outdoors. And lucky for me (and all of us), tenniscore is in full swing this summer. With the revival of ’70s trends (see: the Gucci x Adidas collaboration and the Adidas Gazelles becoming the new “it” sneakers), the country club aesthetic of the 2000s (think Wimbledon and The Royal Tenenbaums) and recent movies like King Richard, tenniscore has found itself front and centre. Brands such as Bottega Veneta, Casablanca and Dior incorporated the aesthetic into their Spring/Summer 2022 collections, while Tory Burch and Lacoste have always made the sport’s style part of their brand.

Whether you’re working up to pro-level status or hitting the court with friends (or you just really like the tennis aesthetic), tenniscore is fashion’s new favourite subculture. From pleated skirts and curve-hugging bodysuits to classic polos, click through the gallery below to channel your inner Serena Williams.

Categories
Men's Fashion

The Best Hair Dryers Of 2022 To Level Up Your Locks

When styling your hair – be it into a neatly coifed quiff or slick side-parting – it’s very easy to blow it. Too much pomade, not enough hold, and it’s all over. It’s also very easy to blow it, and by that, we mean with a hair dryer.

One of the most underrated tools in a man’s grooming arsenal, a good quality hair dryer can fire life into your mane, make applying hair product a doddle and (done right) even help prevent damage caused by the elements.

Of course, as with any gadget or gizmo, there is a lot to choose from, but which one you pick simply comes down to how you intend to use it. “To smooth and straighten out hair you might need something with better power output and longevity,” says Stewart Kwan, a stylist at Ruffians in Edinburgh. “And for texturing and enhancing curly or wavy hair, you could go for a dryer that has or could accommodate a diffuser attachment.”

As a minimum, Kwan says, guys should look for a hair dryer with a cold air setting. “Giving the hair a blast of cold helps seal the hairs cuticles, setting your final look and adding shine.”

Everything Else You Might Need

Professional-grade hair dryers are designed for more styling than you’re likely to be doing at 7am before work, so don’t overlook inexpensive options. Do, though, keep an eye out for a hair dryer with ionic technology, which basically means it emits negative ions that cause the H2O molecules in wet hair to divide and evaporate faster with less heat. This feature can be particularly handy for guys with very thick or long hair that can take an age (and then some) to dry.

And before you think we’re just blowing hot air at you using words like ‘nozzle’ and ‘diffuser’, listen up. If your hair is relatively short, and you’re just looking for a quick zhuzh, no nozzle is required. However, if you’re attempting to smooth out your hair, you’ll need a dryer that comes with a narrow-end nozzle (it’s the shape of a pair of pursed lips). A diffuser, on the other hand, looks like one of those posh rainfall showerheads and is used to enhance your wavy curls and tame the frizzy beast.

The style you want to finish up with will determine what products you apply before and after you dry your hair. “If you are hand-drying your hair, or are trying to make your hair look thicker, you may want to apply a sea salt spray,” says Kwan. “If you are smoothing out your hair, you may need to use a leave-in product, perhaps with heat protection, this will minimise damage and aid with the smoothing of the fibre. And to create more defined curl and to calm frizz, you could use a hair oil, serum or a sea salt spray, before you diffuse-dry your hair.”

The Best Brands For Hair Dryers

Dyson

Undoubtedly the most hyped hair dryer in history, Dyson made its first foray into the market with its ultra-lightweight, ultra-quiet and, let’s face it, ultra-cool Supersonic model in 2009. Much like its vacuum cleaners, cutting-edge technology and futuristic design (seriously, this thing looks like a ray gun from 2118) has helped the British brand suck its way to the top of the haircare pile. Albeit at a hefty price.

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Dyson Supersonic Hairdryer

GHD

GHD, short for Good Hair Day (and who wouldn’t kill for one of those?), is the market leader in hair straightening irons, and a mighty contender in the world heavyweight hair drying championship too. The Leeds-based brand has more of a range than Dyson, with compact travel dryers as well as bigger, beastier models like the Air, which is a salon favourite. Expensive, sure, but they’ll be drying that ‘do until middle age and the consequential hair loss takes a hold.

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ghd Air Hair Dryer

T3 Haircare

Repping the US of A in the Warm Air War with Britain, California-based T3, has top dog status in the high end of the market. The brand is best known for being one of the first to use tourmaline, a semi-precious gemstone which, when heated, emits infrared heat and negative ions that speed up drying and prevents static. Diamond on my necklace, diamonds on my… dryer?

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T3 Featherweight compact dryer black

Remington

Pierce Brosnan may have briefly stolen the Remington name in the 1980s, but the long-standing reputation of the grooming brand of the same name wrestled it back soon enough. For a company of its size and heritage (it started life as a firearms maker in 1816), it’s no surprise it produces some of the best hair dryers around, with added extras like 3D air technology, which minimises air turbulence and produces uninterrupted airflow. Basically, it drys your hair evenly all over, because no one likes a wet patch.

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Remington 2000W Power Dry Hair Dryer

Parlux

Hair dryers by Italian manufacturer Parlux were everywhere during the 1980s and 1990s, and the look of even its newest models have the same retro appeal. The tech has come a long way, mind, with ionic and ceramic devices throughout its range, all of which are surprisingly light despite the look. After all, its the hair that needs to look top notch, not so much the dryer.

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Parlux 3200 Compact Hair Dryer Purple Haze

Wahl

Wahl is better known for its hair clippers, but that’s not to say the American firm can’t multitask. It brings the same professional-grade manufacturing found in its shavers to its hair dryers, but at the snip of the cost of a trip to a London barber. Just make sure you pick one up with the ionic technology and nozzle attachments so your hair at least looks like you have enough dosh to go on a weekly basis.

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Wahl zx573 Chrome Ionic Hair Dryer

Elchim

This hair drying lark ain’t nothing new. Founded in Milan, renowned Italian manufacturer Elchim has been going since 1945. Every one of its products must pass three levels of testing to guarantee more than 2,000 hours of operation, which is enough time to melt an ice cap if you so wish. Its flagship model, the 8thSense, is designed so you can regulate temperature and air flow according to eight different types of hair. You could say it will stay with you through thick and thin.

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ELCHIM 3900 Healthy Ionic Hairdryer

Babyliss

A strong mid-range option, Babyliss is for the gent who likes the idea of keeping his hair frizz-free and smooth, without the need for dropping a sizeable chunk of his pay packet for such a luxury. Sleek enough to live out on the bathroom shelf, and complete with all the nozzles and diffusers you need, you won’t regret a Babyliss purchase. Great for a quiff on the quick.

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BaByliss Power Smooth 2400 Hair Dryer

Wazor

Yes, the brand name does sound like someone with a lisp trying to say ‘razor’, but don’t let that get in the way of the quiet efficiency of its products. The brand’s hair dryers use less wattage than others on this list, saving you a few pennies (emphasis on ‘few’, mind). And its ionic and infrared hair dryer comes with an afro comb attachment. It’s the little things that stand out.

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Wazor 1800W Professional Ionic Hair Dryer

Toni & Guy

Founded in 1963 by two brothers Toni and Guy (funny that), this chain of hairdressing salons is one of the biggest in the world. Its hair dryers won’t set you back as much as a trip to one of its salons, but as a brand that lives and breathes hair, you can trust they know what they’re doing. All the mod-cons are here – tourmaline and ionic tech – so you know you’re getting a solid hair dryer and all for a little less than its competitors.

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Toni & Guy Salon Professional Hair Dryer

Categories
Culture

Who Is Christina in Westworld Season 4?

Wait…that’s not Dolores.

When Evan Rachel Wood appears in Westworld season 4, she’s not playing her gun-slinging prairie girl-gone-rogue. (ICYMI, that woman—spoiler alert—perished at the end of season 3…or so we think.) This time, Wood plays Christina, a new character who couldn’t be any more different than her last. And it’s not just because her hair is deep auburn instead of blonde. So, what’s the new girl’s story?

Christina is painfully normal compared to Dolores. She has a 9-to-5 office job, a city apartment shared with a roommate (played by the very bubbly Ariana DeBose), and a monotonous morning routine. She dreads going on dates or going out at all, and, like most women, she’s exhausted by the dating scene. Christina works for a company called Olympiad Entertainment, where she writes stories for side characters in video games.

christina westworld

Evan Rachel Wood as Christina in Westworld.

HBO

A romantic at heart, Christina can’t help but pitch hopeful, saccharine narratives despite her boss’s demand for dark and tragic stories. Alas, she appears to be a harmless dreamer. But danger lurks: Christina is pestered by an unknown caller, a mysterious man named Peter, who accuses her of ruining his life. “You made me do these things,” he tells her, implying that one of her stories is actually dictating the events in his life. At the end of the episode, Peter jumps off a building, hinting she was responsible for that. Do Christina’s stories in the game have some mysterious control over real people’s lives? And what will happen with her surprise savior, who stepped in at the end of this week’s episode?

We may find out as the new season unfolds, but until then, Wood and Westworld co-creator Lisa Joy break down our unexpected new leading lady.

Evan, who is Christina to you, and what was it like embodying her? Was it different from Dolores?

Evan Rachel Wood: It was very different. It was a completely different approach this season, because she’s very human and vulnerable and messy and imperfect and insecure and kind of nerdy. She’s got her routines. She seems like she’s a bit of a hermit, certainly nowhere near as self-possessed or as powerful as we’ve seen Dolores in the previous seasons.

Christina lives in her dreams inside of her head and she writes stories. But like Dolores, she notices something is off with the world, and she’s looking for an answer to a question that she doesn’t know yet. And so I think that’s really the only sort of bridge that she could have to Dolores. Otherwise, she’s completely new.

Lisa, what was your intention behind the character, somebody so different from who we’ve seen Dolores be in the past?

Lisa Joy: I mean, Dolores had evolved and changed so much already and kind of come to the end of her journey, but I think [finding] a lot of resolution and peace between these oscillations, between victim and perpetrator, and then finding this middle ground. We wanted to explore a totally different dimension to a character that Evan could play. And it was just so exciting to get to write this and see the sea change in Evan’s performance.

It’s an absolutely different character. And to see a new character in the same show has been amazing. It’s also been great being able to relate so viscerally to her character. This is a contemporary, relatable setting. I mean, for me, it was really interesting watching somebody play a writer.

Same here.

LJ: Right? And there is that thing, I don’t know if you have it too, where you’re writing, and I know for Evan, acting, you’re really imagining the internal lives of other people, and it’s an act of empathy and extension. But, ironically, sometimes you just feel like a vehicle for that, and it gets to be confusing, like, “Well, who is this entity here?” And I think that’s something that Evan’s new character struggles with.

I feel like this show always has a really interesting message or theme about free will, whether it’s for hosts or human beings. How did you want to explore that topic this season?

LJ: For me personally, the idea of whether we have free will is almost beside the point. I do think we have free will to a point. I do think a lot of things are set, but there are tiny ways we can distinguish ourselves. But I do think in terms of the philosophical questions of, “Do we have free will? Are we living in a simulation?” All these existential questions that people ask. I go back to the first season saying of, “If you can’t tell, does it matter?” I think it’s still incumbent upon us to act as though we have free will, to act with that responsibility, and to experience this existence as though we have volition and try to do the best and be the best people we can be.

ariana debose as maya with wood as christina in westworld

Ariana DeBose as Maya with Wood’s Christina in Westworld.

HBO

How do you think Christina is handling all this? How is she navigating this strange mystery where someone confronts her about how her stories affect people in real life? It seems like it shakes her a little.

ERW: Absolutely. I think she spends the first half of the season confused and uneasy. And it’s also exploring this idea of this conspiracy theory culture that we’re in right now too, of: well, is it crazy to think that there are other things at play that we may not know about, or is it crazy to just blindly follow and trust that everything is fine? What actually is crazier?

I think we see her going down that rabbit hole that a lot of us are finding ourselves in these days of, “Wait a minute, is this thinking crazy? Or are these questions that I need to be asking myself?”

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

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Categories
Men's Fashion

The 17 Best Hoodies for Men in 2022

It’s difficult to think of anyone item of clothing that has had quite as colorful a history as the humble hoodie. Over the past century, this sportswear staple has gone from playing field to the runway, stopping off at every conceivable urban subculture along the way. It’s been name-checked by prime ministers, designers and screeching Daily Mail editorials, and has even been banned in some parts of the western world for brief periods of time, all thanks to its street associations.

It’s come a long way since Champion invented it for its laborers. Today, the best hoodies for men are enjoying a golden era of acceptance. Just as with Elvis, denim jeans, electronic music and all other aspects of youth culture that initially made grown-ups nervous, everyone has now calmed down and said a collective, “You know what? Maybe a sweatshirt with a hood on the back isn’t inherently evil after all.”

About time too, because cool hoodies are truly a wonder garment. They’re functional, comfortable and stylish in equal measures. And now, thanks to fashion’s ongoing steamy love affair with streetwear, it’s also banging on-trend.

“The hoodie epitomizes streetwear,” says fashion designer Gordon Richardson, former creative director of Topman. “What began as a trend in the 1990s has developed into a global phenomenon because of its versatility and comfort.” There aren’t many items of menswear that work for a hungover afternoon of Netflix, streetwear stunting, a hobble back home from the gym and an athleisure-ly stroll around the city. But the hoodie has you covered for all of them, and even smarter outfits, too.

“As the hoodie has become a wardrobe staple, big brands are listening to their market. Guys aren’t afraid to splash the cash on designer sportswear now, and mixing track tops or joggers with tailoring has become a trend in recent years,” says Richardson.

In a hurry? Check out our top picks for the best hoodies for men, or keep scrolling to read more.

Best Smart Hoodie

COS Relaxed-Fit Hoodie

This men’s hoodie is next level with the highest quality cotton construction, dropped shoulders, ribbed edges and a slightly oversized fit.

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Best Everyday Hoodie

Unrecorded Organic Cotton Hoodie

Kick back in style with this heavyweight, organic cotton hoodie from Unrecorded. With 9 color options and cozy terry knit fabric, this everyday hoodie is a wardrobe essential.

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Best Hoodies for Men

COS

It may only have been on the scene for 10 years, but already COS is one of the coolest names on the high street. With tightly-curated seasonal selections, containing all killer and no filler, COS has been instrumental in bringing that clean, Scandinavian aesthetic to the everyday consumer. Timeless yet contemporary designs, premium quality and zero obnoxious branding all come as standard when you pick up a hoodie from here.

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Cos Best Hoodies

A Day’s March

It sounds like a contradiction, but ever since sportswear and loungewear got the high-fashion seal of approval, the best hoodies for men have become appropriate for smarter dress codes. And nothing says smart like wool and cashmere, which is what this premium hoodie is crafted from. Swedish menswear label, A Day’s March, has mastered the art of basic loungewear making it comfy but never frumpy. You’ll feel equally at home in their clothing on the couch and in the office, making them a fan favorite for minimalists and comfort addicts alike.

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a days march mens hoodiee

Reiss

At the high end of the high street, Reiss sets itself apart from its neighboring stores with superior construction and premium price points. The retailer is also well known for its sleek, fuss-free styling and use of quality materials. When it comes to hoodies, it’s more of the same. Shopping here, you’ll find a refined selection of premium leisurewear that manages to straddle the line between timeless and trendy.

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Reiss Men's Hoodie

Unrecorded

Based on timeless designs and ethical practices, Unrecorded makes simple, yet sleek clothing with an emphasis on sustainability. Crafted from 100% organic, heavyweight cotton, don’t be surprised if this hoodie is your new chilly weather go-to. And since it comes in nine colors, don’t be surprised if you find yourself going back for another… and another.
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unrecorded men's hoodie

Beams Plus

Japanese menswear’s undying obsession with all things vintage Americana, utilitarian and workwear is encapsulated perfectly in the output of Beams Plus. The label is the men’s fashion arm of the sprawling Beams franchise and has been kitting out clued-up shoppers since 1999. Expect to find a mix of plain and patterned styles, rendered in high-quality fabrics, and with premium Japanese construction.

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BEAMS PLUS PULLOVER COOLMAX HOODY

Sunspel

Ever since hoodies became a legit way to look smart and put together, labels that specialize in luxurious, well-made basics have done what they do best with a garment once associated with skaters and shoplifters. Case in point: Sunspel, the British knitwear label that regularly makes us feel all fuzzy inside. Its hoodies come in stroke-able cotton-jersey, and in neutral colors that will work as well with tailored trousers as they do joggers.

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SUNSPEL Mélange Loopback Cotton-Jersey Hoodie

Polo Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren doesn’t just do preppy Americana better that most other brands, the man practically invented it. The brand’s hoodies are smart and stripped back with nothing more than the famous embroidered pony for embellishment. Comfortable and versatile, you can slip these hoodies under a denim jacket or unstructured blazer.

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POLO RALPH LAUREN Mélange Jersey Zip-Up Hoodie

The North Face

Founded in Berkeley, California, in 1968, The North Face quickly became one of the most reputable outdoor brands on the market. In addition to manufacturing industry-standard mountaineering gear, the brand churns out some top notch casual wear, and its hoodies are no exception. Buy from The North Face and you can rest assured of quality, style and finishing touches such as printed logos and woven branded tabs.

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north face men's hoodie

H&M

Swedish fast-fashion juggernaut H&M is one of the most recognizable names of the high street and can be credited with bringing simple, Scandinavian styling to the mass market. The brand is well known for its affordable basics and one piece that crops up over and over again, in various fabrics, patterns and all colors of the rainbow, is the hoodie. If you’re watching your spending and want to get the most bang for your hard-earned buck, this is definitely the place to go.

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Hooded top

Nike

Few brands have the sporting heritage that Nike can shout about so its sweats and gym wear have more authenticity than most. The famous swoosh is almost always present in melange or loopback cotton for maximum comfort. A fine top-layer above jeans or joggers, they will also slip very nicely under a biker, trucker or bomber jacket.

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NIKE CLUB POPOVER LOGO HOODY

Adidas

Like Nike’s, Adidas’ hoodies for men benefit from decades of sporting design and instantly recognizable branding. Whether you go opt for the brand’s famous three stripes or trefoil motif, you’re wearing a classic. The brand does pretty much every style of hoodie imaginable, from pouch pockets to zip-ups, oversized to longline. They’re all great.

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ADIDAS TREFOIL HOODY

Champion

Heritage American sportswear label Champion has been doing the hoodie thing for longer than pretty much anyone else. It’s produced kits for the NFL, the NBA and the US Olympic basketball team. In a crowded market, this is an undisputed MVP brand. Champion is well-known for its patented ‘reverse-weave’ cotton, which uses unique fabric construction and paneled side inserts to eliminate the risk of shrinkage. Needless to say, its hoodies are some of the best around.

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CHAMPION REVERSE WEAVE HOOD SCRIPT LOGO HOODY

Stussy

When it comes to cool streetwear hoodies, why look further than one of the leaders in the game? Stussy is one of the oldest names in the business and widely credited with starting the scene pretty much single-handedly with styles designed for skaters and surfers alike. The hoodie is one of Shawn Stussy’s eponymous brand’s staple items, appearing season after season since day one. Expect bold branding, bright colors, contemporary styling and street cred in abundance.

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STUSSY BASIC HOODY

Carhartt

American heritage workwear label Carhartt has a long-standing reputation for wearability and ruggedness, but in recent years, especially with the introduction of its ‘Work In Progress’ line, it’s become known for its streetwear styling too. Those combined factors make it one of the best options for finding a hoodie as hard-wearing as it is stylish. For workwear meets urban cool, nowhere does it better.

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CARHARTT WIP HOODED COLLEGE SWEAT

Comme des Garcons

Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garcons has long been known in fashion circles for its forward-thinking approach to design and cutting-edge seasonal collections that push the boundaries of fashion. The label’s PLAY line blends these trademark traits with street-friendly styling. A hoodie from CDG PLAY won’t come cheap, but it’s a timeless piece from an industry-leading label, featuring that now-iconic bug-eyed heart branding.

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Best Hoodies - Comme

Off-White

Virgil Abloh’s perma-hyped label is at the forefront of stunting statement streetwear hoodies for men and women alike. It’s one of the brands that turned the humble hoodie into a loud, luxury item. In its range, you’ll find many of the designer’s signature touches – caution-tape stripes up the arm, an oversized fit, asymmetrical cuts and can’t-miss screen prints. You’ll have to pay a premium, of course, but just think of the Instagram engagement.

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off-white men's hoodie

Gucci

Under the flamboyant direction of Alessandro Michele, Gucci has become a streetwear hot ticket, appealing as much to the rich kids of Instagram as it does Monaco yachtsmen. The label uses its hoodies like much it uses everything else – as a means of wearing colorful logos, statement prints and look-at-me branding. You can expect envelope-pushing design and luxury cottons, plus the price tags to go with them. Layer it if you really want to, especially with an on-trend puffer jacket, but they were designed to be seen, rather than blend into an outfit.

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gucci hoodie

Best Hoodies Buying Guide

When it comes to buying the best hoodies for men, these are the main buying considerations to keep in mind.

Fit

They don’t come in skinny fit, but if you want to wear a hoodie under a regular-fit denim jacket, look for one that’s relatively form-fitting. Otherwise, go maxi with an oversized hoodie that nods to the street culture that made it cool in the first place.

Fabric

Fleece back or loopback cotton are the most likely options you’ll find at the shop for the best hoodies and they’re ideal because they’re comfortable, hard-wearing and easily washed. Higher-end brands will also experiment with fabrics like merino or even cashmere if you want to loaf in luxury.

Color

As ever, grey, navy and black are the no-brainers that will get the most wear, but consider khaki, off-white or brownish tones for alternative neutrals. If you want to make a statement, bold reds and yellows will do the job, although a mint green or purple gives you a more subtle way to stand out.

Categories
Culture

Turns Out Evan Rachel Wood Knew About That Westworld Character’s Return for Years

Spoilers below.

Is anyone ever really dead on Westworld?

When it comes to hosts, no one’s gone for too long, especially after last season’s constant recycling of “pearls” and consciousnesses. But the show seemingly had us fooled when one character died and disappeared for a whole season—surely that meant he was a goner, right? Not quite. The first episode of season 4 proved that despite the years-long wait, Teddy, James Marsden’s beloved cowboy who “died” in season 2, is, in fact, still here.

Teddy’s appearances are brief but intriguing. First, he steps in to save Christina (Evan Rachel Wood’s new character, and perhaps a new iteration of Dolores) when she’s attacked during a walk home at night. She and the audience don’t see his face yet—just that he tackles and punches the assailant. It’s only in the episode’s final seconds that we see Teddy’s face as he steps out from the shadows in the street, looking up at Christina in her apartment. She, however, has no idea he’s there.

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For Westworld co-creator Lisa Joy, bringing back Teddy was a no-brainer. “How can you not want to bring James Marsden back? He’s like garlic salt. It makes everything better. For me, at least, garlic salt makes everything better when I’m cooking,” she tells ELLE.com.

“But I think James, we talked about it actually at the end of third season, how he had to go away and die, but we were excited to work with him again in the future. He knew he was coming back.”

For her part, Wood has known Marsden would return since season 2; she even had to lie to her friends about it.

“I knew he was coming back, but I pretended not to know for, like, two years, three years? Okay. I don’t even know. Four years, maybe, since season two?” she says. “Even in my inner circle when people were like, ‘So wait, is that for real? Is he really gone?’ I’m like, ‘Yeah, man, Teddy’s dead. I don’t know. I don’t know if they’re going to bring him back.’ But I did know.”

Adds Joy, “Well, it was great to see him back and to have that chemistry back again.”

Likewise, producer Alison Schapker, who joined Westworld this season, spoke highly of Teddy’s grand return.

“I think everybody loves James. I have since fallen in love with James. He’s just an incredible actor and Teddy, I think, really just adds that bit of heart to this couple that’s doomed to be drawn to each other again and again,” she explains. “But then, obviously, they came together [in the theme park] under such oppressive circumstances, not being able to see the whole picture, and I think that they will meet each other under different circumstances again, and I think that part of the mystery of season four is: Who will they be to one another by the time it’s over?”

Now that Teddy (if that’s even still his name) is back, his path for the rest of the season remains a mystery, though considering where we’ve seen him already, it seems like he’s headed straight for Christina. Here’s what the internet had to say about his comeback.

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This content is imported from Twitter. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.

This content is imported from Twitter. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.

This content is imported from Twitter. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.

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Categories
Men's Fashion

The Best Denim Jackets You Can Buy In 2022

There’s probably some science behind why the denim jacket is so consistently handsome and endlessly wearable. That’s not why we’re here. It just is.

Though it may be chopped, changed, nipped and tucked season on season, the truth is it never falls out of favour in men’s fashion.

It’s a piece that appears in wardrobes almost by default because it suits just about everyone, making waists appear narrower and looking stylish without trying too hard.

Then there’s the thick, rugged construction, which makes it a practical workhorse of a garment, deflecting wind and rain without causing its wearer to overheat when the sun comes out.

And anyway, who chooses to argue with cowboys, railroad workers and miners? Not us.

In a hurry? Here are our top picks when it comes to the best denim jackets for men:

Runner Up

Edwin E-Classic Jacket

Founded in Tokyo in 1947, Edwin knows denim and it shines through in their exceptionally high quality denim jackets.

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The History of the Denim Jacket

Elements of the garment itself can be traced back to the indigo dyed work coats worn by 18th-century Japanese firefighters. But it was Levi Strauss in the 1880’s who cut the denim (or ‘trucker’, as he called it) jacket as we know it today, to build on the success of his already wildly popular jeans.

Laborers loved it because the fabric gave the jacket a hard-wearing edge, but was still easy to move in, and the US Navy soon decided the same. It wasn’t long after that Elvis opted for double denim in Jailhouse Rock (1957), thrusting (quite literally) the denim jacket into the mainstream, where it remains today.

Not all denim jackets are created equal, mind. When it comes to buying one, it’s important to know how to sort the denim to don from the denim to ditch. “A tailored fit, a good weight denim, and the stitching and rivets are the key pillars of a first-class denim jacket,” says Topman buying director Rachel Morgans.

As part of this three-point checklist, make sure any jacket you pick up isn’t paper-thin, it doesn’t drown you (even if it’s oversized), and be sure to scrutinise the finer details such as hardware (zips marked ‘YKK’ are an excellent determiner of quality).

Get all these right, and you’ll have a jean jacket that’ll keep on trucking for as long as you can fit into it.

How To Wear A Denim Jacket

The payoff from taking time to nail your denim jacket purchase is the number of styling options that it offers. While it may have started out as a piece of grease-covered workwear (and as such looks effortless in casual outfits), it’s also possible to slide a well-fitting example under an unstructured blazer or overcoat.

Morgans, however, recommends keeping things simple: “A denim jacket is a casual fashion staple, so pair it with a plain T-shirt and opt for a pair of chinos.”

If you’re after a more attention-seeking look, consider doubling your efforts: “The double denim look is a tricky one, so if you lack confidence, wear your denim jacket with a pair of much darker jeans,” adds Morgans. A fresh spin on the Canadian tuxedo, eh?

Also, consider owning a few different types of denim jackets, from dark wash, light wash, or gray wash to a blue denim jacket and distressed denim jackets, to add variety to your wardrobe and keep the year-round style going.

zara el burgues bensimon selected homme

The Best Denim Jacket Brands For Men

Levi’s

The original and still one of the best, Levi’s iconic trucker jacket is the style that spawned a thousand imitators. Today’s iterations of the classic may have had a superficial overhaul – available in a range of washes and with details such as a down-filling – but they all still share the same timeless design and robust build.

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levis denim jacket

A.P.C.

If high-quality, unfussy wardrobe staples in a pared-back palette are your thing, then Paris-based brand A.P.C. is an obvious sartorial go-to. Already well-known for its selvedge denim jeans, the same knowledge has been applied to jackets, which come in classic, easy-to-wear shades.

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a.p.c. denim jacket

Edwin

Established in Japan in 1947 and coveted by denim heads the world over ever since it’s little surprise that Edwin’s jean jackets are the perfect partner to the brand’s lusted-after jeans. Though they cost more than the average high-street option, they are ideal for lovers of a premium raw denim jacket and relaxed fits.

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ASOS

The men’s denim offering at ASOS is (probably) the most comprehensive anywhere on the web. With hundreds of products in the category alone, if you can think of a style – classic, contemporary, slim jacket fit or plus-sized – chances are you’ll find it here.

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asos denim jacket

Acne Studios

By now, pretty much every man is in agreement that Stockholm design collective Acne Studios is the ultimate in Scandinavian cool. While leather jackets may be the brand’s most famous export, its recently refreshed denim line is every bit as scalpel-sharp (and way more wallet-friendly).

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ACNE STUDIOS PASS DENIM JACKET

River Island

When it comes to providing quality, affordable clothing which responds to the fast-changing tastes of men, few do it like River Island. The high-street retailer’s denim jackets come in a dizzying array of colour, cut and wash options, which means you’re utterly spoilt for choice.

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Grey acid wash borg collar denim jacket

Nudie Jeans

Based in Gothenburg, denim brand Nudie Jeans has been quietly outfitting stylish legs since the turn of the millennium. Thankfully, its line of men’s denim jackets – cut from dry denim, which breaks in over time – is just as appealing, meaning your torso can benefit from Sweden’s famed clean lines and high-quality design, too.

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nudie jeans denim jacket

AllSaints

Not content with perfecting perhaps the ultimate distressed leather jacket, AllSaints can now lay claim to making major noise in the world of men’s denim. Its jackets display the British brand’s trademark (and perfectly executed) worn in detail, making them a solid choice for more casual, grungy looks.

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allsaints denim jacket

Gap

Any brand that made its name in the 1990s is bound to turn out top-notch denim. Gap may be a go-to for basics, but there’s nothing basic about its jean jackets, which marry vintage design details with modern cuts and colours, all without giving your wallet cause for concern.

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Sherpa-lined icon denim jacket

Carhartt

Established in 1889, workwear specialist Carhartt has built a name that is today shorthand for rugged, hardy clothing that can withstand a bit of rough and tumble. True to form, the US firm’s denim jackets champion functional design and robust fabric composition while still managing to look damn good.

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carhartt WIP denim jacket

OrSlow

Japanese brand OrSlow prides itself on producing clothing made from locally sourced materials on specialist machinery. Its line of workwear-inspired denim jackets is no different: impeccably cut, crafted with care and endlessly stylish.

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orslow denim jacket

H&M

H&M has conquered pretty much every street corner and shopping centre in the world thanks to its agreeable prices and seemingly endless stream of new drops. Denim jackets are very much one of the Swedish firm’s fortes, combining sturdy construction with trend-led designs.

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 H&M denim jacket

Topman

High-street giant Topman prides itself on always having its finger on what’s hot right now. So if you’re after denim with an on-trend edge, you need look no further. Whether oversized, distressed, pre-faded or embellished, the retailer’s not-so-run-of-the-mill designs are hard to beat.

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Oversized Black Denim Jacket

Categories
Culture

Where Was the Summer I Turned Pretty Filmed?

Though the first season of The Summer I Turned Pretty was only just released, it’s already been renewed for a second season by Amazon Prime. It’s based on a book of the same name by Jenny Han, who is well-known as the author of To All the Boys I’ve Loved Before. She also wrote the first episode and served as co-showrunner. The new series follows teen girl Isabel “Belly” Conklin, played by newcomer Lola Tung in what might be the last summer at the beach her family visits every year.

The show hangs on a riveting love triangle. Belly has had a longstanding crush on her childhood friend Conrad, played by Christopher Briney, and it seems like he might finally be noticing her. But then his younger brother Jeremiah, who is played by Gavin Casalegno, starts looking for romance with Belly, too. She’s not sure who to pick and there are two more books in the series for future seasons to explore the question with.

There’s also growth and drama in their family dynamics, but the heart of the story is love on the beach. Here’s where they made that atmosphere come to life.

Where is The Summer I Turned Pretty set?

The two families vacation every year at Cousins Beach, and sadly, it turns out that the beach does not actually exist. Han told Amazon Prime Video that she “had a lot of beaches in [her] head” as she was forming Belly’s story, but that’s part of the fictional spot’s charm.

“I think that’s part of the reason why people can read the book and feel like [Cousins Beach] is their beach,” she said. In another interview with Today she dropped some more specific names, shouting out Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, the Hamptons, and Nags Head.

Where Was The Summer I Turned Pretty Filmed?

Nags Head is in North Carolina, and that’s where the show was eventually filmed. But they were in the town of Wilmington, North Carolina, according to IMDb. If you want to get as close to the “real thing” as you can, that’s the town to see—but they just might be shooting the new season there.

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Categories
Men's Fashion

15 Of The Best Tank Tops For Men To Meet Every Seasons Needs (2022 Edition)

Whether warmer weather is on the horizon, you’re headed for a much-needed vacation, or happen to live somewhere where it’s always t-shirt season (stop bragging) tank tops for men are a pivotal piece of clothing needed in any man’s closet. Thanks to the giant uptick in athleisure in recent years, these muscle-bearing tops are quickly becoming a go-to for guys, even in high-fashion spaces.

With the added bonus of being ridiculously comfortable, breathable, and excellent at showing off your gym gains, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t be adding tank tops for men to your rotation. 

From singlets and stringlets to muscle tees and classic tanks, there is a tank top for men for every occasion,  sport or high fashion moment. Each tank is designed to the highest standard with its unique performance in mind. Different cuts provide different coverage so you can bear it all or strategically show off the body parts you prefer best. 

young blonde man wearing tank tops for men
@andreafaccio / Instagram

The rise in comfortability in clothing means a saturation in the marketplace. Because there are so many tank tops for men to choose from, we’ve compiled a comprehensive list of 14 of the most popular and coveted so deciding is easy. Get ready to fill your shopping cart, because you may need to pick up more than one.

Our Top 10 Picks

Tom Snyder cuts a mean tank because of their impeccable dedication to tailoring. Made of 100% dyed cotton jersey, this Made in L.A. top clings in all of the right places.

The basic design of this top makes it suitable for a variety of personal styles, but its superb fit and the timeless cut means ultimate flexibility from the beach all the way to dinner. A tailored trouser provides the extra polish needed along with a dress shoe. Avoid a sneaker unless it’s daytime casual. The top comes in several classic colors, so adding more than one to your wardrobe is a good idea. The price is higher than others on the list, but know that you’re investing in a piece that will last. 

Chances are, you’ve worn one of these tank tops for men in your life. The Hanes cotton tank is a go-to for a reason. At a reasonable price for 6 shirts, it’s unbelievably easy to see why men reach for Hanes when considering tank tops for men.

The high cut of the armpit emphasizes the pecks and the cotton material is extra breathable even on the hottest of days. Your best bet with this tank is to use it for layering. It’s the perfect undershirt and can even be worn underneath an open camp shirt or chore coat. Elevate the look by pairing it with pleated pants and a pearl necklace. 

Lululemon is the new standard when it comes to workout gear. The Fundamental Tank Top is about as basic as you can get in all of the right ways. We love the roominess in the chest, which helps increase mobility when working out or playing sports. With the right pair of shorts, this tank can be easily dressed up for errands or coffee shop dates. 

This simple tank contains lycra fiber for stretch and shape, so you can wipe your face or even rough house without it affecting the fit of the top. Its cotton fabrication means that it’s quick drying and its no stink-zinc technology inhibits odor-causing bacteria. You probably shouldn’t go for a date after working out in this tank, but technically, you could.

We love when a high fashion brand creates clothing at a lower price point. Comme des Garcons is a genius at bringing couture down to the street level, and this Sunspel Vest is no exception. For a designer item under $100, you’re purchasing a super soft 100% cotton tank with a loose fit and a long length – all for a pretty good deal. 

The oversize fit is perfect for the fashionable guy who likes layering with fashion pieces like open cardigans. Pair with loose trousers and a trendy, thick sandal for an effortless vibe. This tank is great on its own but the basic color and roomy body is ideal for layering with sweaters, vests, and even a cool blazer. 

Looking for the best way to show off your gains at the gym? The TFL Tactic Performance tank is highly rated among fitness bros. Its signature racer back design is designed to show off every last muscle, so long as you’re comfortable showing off some skin. 

With all that sweating going on, you’ll appreciate the anti-microbial layer built directly into the fabric to protect you from unwanted odor. 

There’s something really striking about the retro design of the Van Cortlandt singlet by Tracksmith. The sash racing stripe boasts a history dating back to the 1800s at Cornell University. 

While the singlet is definitely worth the money, the steeper price tag keeps it out of the bargain bin. An investment in this singlet is a good one, though. The soft and breathable mesh is moisture-wicking and built to last. 

If pro athletes are wearing it, chances are, it’s worth considering. Under Armour is a trusted brand in the men’s fashion world, so it makes sense that their compression tank tops for men are a favorite with us.

The Iso-chill technology keeps you cool while you work out by pulling heat away from the body. Moisture-wicking material and a mesh under arm will keep you feeling clean and fresh, at this point the only thing it won’t do is make you actually go to the gym. For something under $50, we’d say that it’s a steal. 

These days, shopping on Amazon makes finding your favorite graphic tank as easy as clicking a button. This affordable top uses a black-ground to make the neon colors of the MTV logo pop.

Additionally, the slim nature of the straps shows off the arms. A classic fit means it won’t hug the body too tightly but will show off your back, chest, and pecks like a charm. 

This tank can do it all. The cult favorite brand has made a great tank in a regular fit that is great for the gym and the street. A regular fit and dropped armholes create some serious comfortability. 

Guys love the six different color options of the Triumph Muscle Tank. The semi-reasonable price tag makes it possible to pick up more than one color. The sueded tri-blend jersey material doesn’t hurt, either. 

Not only are you going to love the look of this simple tank with a pair of jean shorts, but you’re going to fall for its softness, thanks to the certified renewable resources used to make it. Lyocell, a natural fiber made of wood pulp, brings the ultra-softness and the pima cotton gives the tank its drape and texture. 

While it’s not the bargain choice, it will outlast the Hane’s tank, which is similar in fit. An investment in a high-quality sustainable tank is worth it in the long run. Thanks to the higher cut, narrower straps, and tighter ribbed fit, the CDLP option is great for showing off your muscles with comfort and ease.  

Much like other tank tops for men on this list, Russell’s athletic tank has a muscle tee fit. What sets this tank apart is how close it sits to the body. The slim fit has a naturally slimming effect on the body and the armhole is cut so it sits closer to your natural shoulder. 

One of the best features of this product is all of the different purchase combinations. Choose just one tank for under $10 or a variety of colors to suit all of your needs. Even though this tee is simple, it still comes with the moisture-wicking and odor-minimizing technology found in highly-priced competitive brands. 

The Balance Utopia tank offers tons of versatility. The self-conscious guy will appreciate the longer length that covers the bum and comes with a slightly curved hem that slims. 

If you’re in need of a wider range of sizes, check out this tank. It comes in sizes up to 4XL. There are different colors to choose from, but each tank has a smooth finish with nice trim detail. This Utopia tank is pretty much a no-brainer. 

Nike always does an excellent job when it comes to performance, and the Dri-FIT Miler tank is no exception. Considering these tank tops for men is reasonably priced, durable, breathable, and comes in some seriously cool fashion colors, it’s a win in our books. 

Designed with running in mind, the split hem makes movement extra easy. Plus, it comes in tall sizes, too. If conscious shopping is your thing, then you’ll appreciate Nike’s transparency about how this tank is made. 

Performance is key in tank tops for men, but the buttery yellow color of the Hoops Summer Essentials top alone makes it worth the purchase. Ideal for hoops or posting up after the game, you’ll love this mesh tank.

As for cut, this tank offers a loose cut and dropped armholes, making it perfect when unleashing your slam dunk powers. Like Nike and other top brands these days, Adidas uses recycled materials to create their most iconic tank tops for men. 

If it’s Tom Ford, you know you’re investing in a piece of timeless elegance. When it comes to tank tops for men, the luxury brand hits the mark. Sure, you’re going to spend some coin, but you’ll receive quality fit, soft cotton, and modal blend, and breathable, stretchy fabric you’ll never want to take off. 

The tank is advertised as a sleep shirt, but we all know it’s how you style it. Add slim-cut pants or a pair of black trousers with a baggy drape and a black leather belt to make this tank feel polished. 

What to look for when looking for tank tops for men

Straps Width  

 The narrower your straps, the more likely they are to make your arm muscles appear larger. Super thin stringlet straps take this idea to the extreme by drawing attention to your chest and lats as well as your arms. If concealing the top part of your shoulder and flattering the length of your arm is your goal, then a wide-cut strap found on a muscle tee will do. 

@janis_danner / Instagram

Fit 

The cut of tank tops for men holds much more weight than it’s often given credit for. Each style sends out a unique message and has a big impact on how your overall look is perceived. Tight and ribbed cotton will give off a sexier vibe when paired with tailored trousers.

If you’re trying to hide some problem areas like your stomach, for example, then a looser fit will likely make you feel more comfortable. An overall loose or standard fit is going to sit slightly away from the body and works in nearly all scenarios. A narrow fit cut closely to the body has a slimming effect.

Occasion 

Where you’re headed is important when it comes to tank tops for men. Skin-baring designs like a stringlet or highly athletic looks (think anything from Nike or Adidas) are for casual settings. Cotton, blends, and other superior fabrics can be dressed up and worn for many moments beyond sport. 

FAQ

    • Shorts are an obvious go-to, especially in the summer. They can be worn with nicely tailored pants if the tank is on the tight side. Lately, men have been pairing tanks with a blazer or even an open camp shirt.

      • Guys should definitely wear tank tops, but it depends on the situation. Typically, tanks are casual and work best during fitness or at a bbq, but cut and fabric dictate a tank’s appropriateness. You probably shouldn’t wear one to a wedding, but a designer tank top in a luxe fabric is more suitable than you think. 

        • Most tank tops do make your look slimmer by narrowing your body’s overall appearance. If the straps sit farther in close to the neck, however, they will actually make your arms appear larger at the shoulders, which is great for guys showing intent on showing off their physique. 

          • The type of tank will indicate where it works best. Running, sport, and compression tanks are ideal for the gym, while cotton material works for daytime and casual hangs.

Categories
Culture

The World Reacts to the End of Roe v. Wade

There’s no other way to say it: Today is a sad day for America. Just one month after Politico reported a leaked draft opinion, the Supreme Court has overturned Roe v. Wade, ending the constitutional right to abortion and reversing nearly 50 years of precedent. The leak may have given us a heads up, but that didn’t make the official decision—which came on Friday—any less painful. “I am heartbroken,” Michelle Obama wrote on Twitter. “We may now be destined to learn the painful lessons of a time before Roe was made law of the land—a time when women risked losing their lives getting illegal abortions.” This is what “our mothers and grandmothers and great-grandmothers lived through,” Obama added, “and now here we are again.”

The former First Lady is just one of many activists, politicians, thought leaders, and celebrities to voice their reactions on social media. Hillary Clinton said the SCOTUS opinion will “live in infamy as a step backward for women’s rights and human rights.” Actress Keke Palmer wrote that she is “past disgusted w/ my country and their constant inability to protect one another’s right & keep their word. How u overturning the wrong things? So many things to overturn that make sense. But this is what you chose??” On Twitter, West Side Story star Rachel Zegler asked: “why the fuck don’t you care about us? why the fuck do you think you have any say over our bodies?”

Given the decision, more than half the states in the U.S. are now likely to ban abortion. Below, a list of reactions to the SCOTUS ruling that will make reproductive health care inaccessible for millions. For ELLE’s comprehensive guide to better understanding the state of abortion care today, please click here.

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