Month: May 2022

When it comes to staying cool in summer heat, linen really can’t be topped. So, why has it developed a reputation as being a bit ‘past it’?

Most likely it’s a Victorian hang-up over creases, but as many Mediterranean dandies have proved, linen can make for a raffishly sophisticated look when you know its properties and how to get the best out of them.

What Is Linen?

Linen is a natural fibre made from the stalks of the flax plant Linum usitatissimum. There is evidence to suggest that a linen manufacturing industry was in operation in Egypt over 4,000 years ago. Knowledge of the processes involved in making linen was eventually carried into southern Europe via the Phoenicians, but it was Belfast in Northern Ireland that became the linen hub of the world, producing almost all of the fabric during the Victorian era.

Bed linen was coveted by the upper classes for its cool and soft feeling against the skin, becoming a mark of wealth and social standing. These days, textiles account for the majority of linen grown, with clothing forming only a very small percentage, making a well-sourced and cared for linen shirt an all the more valuable addition to your wardrobe.

Linen Versus Cotton – The Benefits

Coolness

Linen is highly breathable, much more so than cotton due to its comparatively lower thread counts. Take bed sheets, for example. A fine Egyptian cotton bed sheet will start at about a 200 thread count, while a similar quality linen sheet will have a thread count of between 80 and 150.

Absorbency

Linen has a very high moisture absorbency rate, making it the ideal summer fabric for hot and humid climates. It’s also hypoallergenic, which means sweat is less likely to break down its fibres. Combined with its lack of elasticity, this ability to quickly absorb and wick away moisture from the body accounts for the ease with which linen can crease.

Resilience & Longevity

While linen is 30 per cent stronger than cotton, its chief advantage is its longevity. Although a brand new cotton shirt will feel smoother and silkier to the touch, linen only really starts coming into its own after about three to five years of wear.

It tends to become softer and shinier with each wash too, whereas cotton does the opposite. Flax fibres don’t stretch a great deal and are resistant to damage caused by abrasion, which generally speaking is a good thing, although repeated folding and ironing can wear out collars on linen shirts.

How To Wear Linen

While a premium fabric like cashmere has become entirely mainstream (with a huge number of lower quality yarns available on the market), linen remains a polarising material, as evidenced by British actor Bill Nighy in an interview he gave The Telegraph in 2010. “Never trust a man in linen. I can’t relax around a man in a linen suit. Men in unstructured suits are unsettling, and the greatest offenders are those who risk linen.”

Yet swathes of discerning Italian and French men can pull off the slightly crumpled effect with aplomb. So what gives? First and foremost, linen is in a way an affront to our very British taste – our sartorial history simply deplores creases. They are anathema to suited and booted gentlemanly style.

However, you’ll be hard pushed to find 100 per cent linen pieces these days. Brands are well aware of the general aversion to creasing and as such, tend to blend linen with either cotton or silk. The result is a perfect lightweight fabric with great structure, breathability and that distinctly European insouciance.

Linen Suit

To wear linen confidently is to embrace the materials relaxed crumpledness, and the easiest way to do this is with a linen suit. Ideal for a relaxed summer wedding, particularly in a shade of tan, a simple two-piece allows you to beat the heat and still look smart.

Finish with a gingham shirt in crisp cotton to add in both contrasting textures and patterns.

Linen Blazer

To stay breezy but still business-appropriate, go halves on your suit with a neatly cut linen blazer. Trousers are more prone to creasing from sitting down, so keep them freshly pressed in a dark cotton or cotton blend and opt for a lighter jacket up top.

This can also be worn with chinos or jeans for a solid go-to weekend look.

Linen Shirt

A linen shirt is an excellent all-rounder when it comes to summer dressing. Owing to its laid-back appeal, a well-cut version in sky blue can slide under a suit to tone down a more formal look, or sit over a T-shirt and shorts to take a casual combination up a notch.

Linen Trousers

Pure linen trousers can be tricky for no other reason than a man’s crotch has its own atmospheric considerations in hot climes. Given linen’s absorbency, trousers can become misshapen and scruffy looking. Dark suit colours like navy do well to hide this, but if opting for brighter shades, seek out a linen-blend instead, which will keep everything looking smart.

How To Choose Quality Linen Fabrics

Given that new linen is quite stiff to the touch, discerning its quality before buying can be difficult. There aren’t any hard and fast rules to identifying superior linen, so more often than not you simply have to trust the integrity of the brand you’re buying.

As a general rule, you can rest assured that linens woven in Italian mills will be of the highest quality, considering the Italian history and level of expertise in working with fine and delicate yarns.

One aesthetic consideration is ‘slubbing’. Slubs are tiny knots in the threads, and while they are not viewed as a defect, the best linens will be completely free of them.

Where To Buy Linen Clothing

Perhaps more than any other fabric, you truly get what you pay for with linen and linen-blends. The best harvests and the most expert milling practices will be reflected in the price, so try not to skimp.

Stick to labels that pride themselves on the provenance of their fabrics. Any of the Savile Row names are an excellent starting point (for instance, Richard James has a fantastic collection of linen-blend blazers) but even the Row’s head tailors will concede that their Italian cousins have the edge when it comes to working with the fabric. Therefore, it would be wise to explore the likes of Loro Piana, Boglioli, Canali, Berluti, Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli.

Given linen’s longevity and tendency to get better with age, it’s a wise move to invest in quality linen, rather than penny-pinch. That said, there are many mid-priced brands producing affordable options that offer a good balance between quality and value. Suitsupply and J.Crew are two excellent examples – both source fabrics from renowned mills within Italy’s renowned Biella region (see below).

Premium Linen Pieces

High Street Linen Pieces

How To Care For Linen

Since linen has no lint and doesn’t pill like wool, it’s very simple to care for. Steer clear of dry cleaning unless a blazer is obviously tarnished – it’s simply not necessary for a fabric that is so comfortable taking on moisture, plus the harsh chemicals involved in dry cleaning won’t do it any favours.

A lukewarm hand or machine wash is the best way to clean linen. Once done, simply hang dry. A quick iron when damp is perfectly acceptable if the garment is excessively creased, but with modern linen blends this will rarely be the case.

Avoid over-ironing the crease of the collar as this can damage the fibres – with a linen shirt you want a nice roll rather than a sharp fold, anyway.

Why Is Linen So Costly?

Much like cashmere, the price of linen is elevated due to the laborious processes involved in making it. Add to that the fact that weather conditions can also affect the quality of harvests, and you have another factor which can bump this fabric’s price up further.

The best and longest fibres tend to be from flax that is hand-harvested, after which the seeds are removed. Bacteria are then introduced to the stalks to decompose the pectin that clumps up the fibres. This process, called ‘retting’, can take quite some time if done organically.

Then comes the ‘scutching’ process, which usually occurs between August and December. One scutching method involves two metal rollers crushing the stalks, thereby removing the unwanted woody parts. The remaining fibres are then ‘heckled’, which has nothing to do with shouting at bad comedians, but rather involves the combing away of short fibres, leaving only the longest and softest fibres for production.

The long fibres are slightly twisted and then processed using a wet spinning technique to achieve a smoother and softer yarn. Some manufacturers have cottonised production, using machinery to speed up the process, but this is known to yield a lower quality fibre.

Is There A Benchmark?

Linen yarns are measured in ‘lea’, which is the number of yards in a pound of linen divided by 300; so one lea will give 300 yards per pound.

Measuring lea is useful when determining linen quality (much like the thread count in cotton or wool), but you will rarely see a textile’s lea stated on the label of a shirt, jacket or pair of trousers. To gauge quality, you’re best carrying out a simple touch test. As a marker, a fine linen handkerchief is between 40 and 50 lea. If it feels rough and stiff, it’s likely to have come from shorter flax fibres.

Provenance is also a good indicator of quality. The best linen-growing climates are considered to be Normandy in France and Flanders in Belgium, but again it’s unlikely for this information to be plainly stated on a label. However, the very best linen weaving mills are almost exclusively in the Biella region of northern Italy.

Ordinarily, getting kitted out head to toe in your most expensive clothing might be something you’d reserve for a date, a wedding or a black-tie event. However, if you were a devotee of terrace fashion, a matchday trip to the pub would be the only excuse you’d need to get yourself suited and booted.

Of course, by “suit” we mean a grand’s worth of designer Italian outerwear and by “boots” we’re referring to hen’s-teeth-rare Adidas trainers. Because the terrace lads’ definition of finery is a far cry from your standard Savile Row tailoring.

Followers of this subcultural movement refer to themselves as “casuals”. To the layman, they’re football fans who choose to clad themselves in designer “casual” clothing rather than their team’s colours. In the early days of the late 1970s, this was done in order to more easily infiltrate rival firms for fights – something that has seen the term become synonymous with hooliganism and thuggery.

But not all casuals are or were hellbent on weekend, lager-fuelled barbarity. For many, their love for the scene revolves around the fashion and music. Scratch below the surface and you’ll find there’s more to terrace fashion than just flying fists and Stone Island logos. In fact, the scene has influenced modern menswear in ways you probably weren’t even aware of.

The Rise Of The Casuals

Terrace fashion has its roots in the late 1970s. The success of English football clubs saw young fans travelling overseas to Europe for matches and developing a taste for new and exotic sportswear in the process. They brought it back home, others saw and wanted it, and so the cycle began. This was really the beginning of hype sportswear.

The subculture developed its own uniform and a selection of core brands. “Farah, Lois, Diadora, Nike, Adidas, Puma, Sergio Tacchini, Fila, Ellesse, Cerutti 1881, Australian, Lacoste, Lyle and Scott, Pringle, Kappa,” says Neil Primett, owner of 80s Casual Classics, a dedicated casual shop that has supplied wardrobe to films such as The Firm, This Is England and The Business. “These are the labels that made up the outfit of your typical 1979-to-1985 casual.

“Exactly where it started is more difficult to say. I could not pin this on any one place.”

Many credit Manchester as the birthplace of terrace fashion, others namecheck Liverpool. Wherever it began, one thing was for certain: this new way of dressing was offering young, working-class men a space where they could engage with fashion.

“Then we got into one-upmanship,” says Primett. “It was all about who had the best and the latest gear. You might have started out wanting the best Patrick football boots to be like the best footballer. Next thing you know you were after the latest must-have Patrick cagoule. And so it continued.”

The Evolution Of Terrace Fashion

The one-upmanship meant that terrace fashion evolved quickly, especially during the 80s. “The style changed rapidly and dramatically,” recalls Gary Aspden, a footwear designer and brand consultant for Adidas, and cult figure in terrace fashion. “It went from skin-tight jeans to flares to a tapered fit to a 501 fit to a loose, baggy fit – all in the space of a decade. It would literally change overnight. It was street fashion in the truest sense. You had to be part of it to keep up with it.”

During the 90s, cornerstone brands such as Sergio Tacchini and Fila gave way to the likes of Stone Island and CP Company. High-end names, such as Prada, Burberry, Aquascutum and Gucci also began to creep into the stands as casuals continued in their bid to outdo each other.

However, the constant peacocking wasn’t to last. The advent of new technology and online auctions saw previously rare items becoming more easily obtainable and the casual look plateaued. “The playing field is so different to how it was when I was a teenager,” says Aspden. “And that’s down to the internet.

“Nowadays casual style has a much more set look and whilst it still exists there isn’t the same urgency in the style one-upmanship that used to go on. The only two brands I can think of that had the longevity to maintain their relevance right the way through were Adidas and Lacoste.”

Terrace Fashion In Modern Menswear

Today, terrace fashion has swaggered out of the stands and into the mainstream. Brands that once had heavy links to football violence have shaken off those negative connotations and become more accessible. It’s the result of the casual look moving beyond its sports-tribe roots and becoming a lifestyle for style-conscious men.

It’s something that Aspden recognises from his work on Adidas’ Spezial line – a collection of clothing that has been bringing casual style to a wider audience. “With Spezial we acknowledged that there is a hardcore Adidas-dedicated audience here in the UK and across Northern Europe that has its roots in casual style and bears little relation the sneakerhead-hype-basketball-inspired sportswear culture that permeates the US.”

Music has also had a huge part to play in opening the casual uniform up to a wider audience. The advent of acid house in the late 1980s and early 1990s brought sportier styles and big logos into the spotlight, while artists such as Liam Gallagher, the Stone Roses and Kasabian have all played a part in keeping the style alive today.

Terrace Trainer Culture

The word “sneakerhead” probably isn’t something you’d tend to associate with the rain-battered terraces of English football clubs, but trainer culture is rife in this country thanks to the casuals. However, while traditional sneaker enthusiasts fawn over all things Nike and New Balance, for the terrace fashion set there’s only one brand worth striving for.

“Adidas has always made the best football products and for me that is at the root of it,” says Aspden. “Where I grew up, when the whole terrace thing kicked off in the late 1970s, it was young kids that adopted the brand’s football shoes as a fashion staple.”

Most of Aspden’s generation were introduced to Adidas footwear through football shoes like the Kick, the Mamba, the Bamba and the Samba. As the 1980s rolled on, all manner of Adidas styles became popular – not just football-inspired models. “We were wearing everything from tennis, running, training, indoor and even the leisure shoes that Adidas made at that time,” Aspden remembers. “There was also a huge subculture of kids travelling over to Switzerland, Austria and Germany to get hold of Adidas trainers that weren’t available in the UK.”

After spotting the demand, savvy retailers such as Liverpool’s Wade Smith and Manchester’s Oasis (not the band) circumvented the company and began importing Adidas shoes themselves. This opened things up to a wider audience and made copping rare trainers more manageable for UK enthusiasts, further cementing the brand with the three stripes as the go-to for casual footwear.

“I think most terrace lads like the simplicity of that Adidas aesthetic from the 70s and 80s,” Aspden adds. “Adidas footwear is synonymous with casual style in the same way that Doc Martens are synonymous with skinheads.”

It’s a trend as evergreen as Converse All-Stars, but even so, the modern obsession with retro sneakers has brought 80s and 90s styles back into fashion.

Key Pieces

The typical terracewear aficionado’s wardrobe will be packed to bursting point with expensive coats, technical jackets and rare trainers. However, the bulk of it can be divided up into seven distinct categories. These are the key styles you need to know about.

Mac

If you’ve ever been unfortunate enough to have seen Green Street, there are likely two things you remember about Charlie Hunnam’s football-firm-boss character. Number one: his shockingly badly acted Cockney accent. And number two: his pristine, Stone Island trench coat.

In the 1980s, casuals made a move toward British luxury brands, the two main ones being Burberry and Aquascutum. These two labels are known for producing some of the finest long-length outerwear and it wasn’t long before beige, knee-length coats were flooding football grounds.

In more recent years, the style has lost ground to more technical styles but still remains a cornerstone of casual culture.

Hooded Jacket

The north-west of England is arguably the spiritual home of terrace fashion. Rainy, outerwear-loving cities like Manchester and Liverpool gave rise to the casuals and as such, the scene’s affinity for anoraks and cagoules is deep rooted.

Terrace fashion is about two key things: who’s go the best clobber, and keeping the elements at bay while watching the match. This set of requirements has seen high-quality, high-end hooded jackets become the defining garment of the scene. Brands like Stone Island and CP Company have become the gold standards, but sailing and outdoor brands such as Henri Lloyd, Fjallraven and Paul & Shark are also popular.

Track Jacket

Before all the Aquascutum trench coats and CP Company goggle jackets, the humble track jacket reigned supreme in the casual’s wardrobe. This sporty, retro piece is still a common sight at matches today, but it was when fans started bringing tracksuits back from trips to Europe in the late 1970s that it really go a foothold in the subculture.

Italian brands like Sergio Tacchini, Ellesse and Fila soon came to define the look. The fact that these names weren’t available in the UK at the time only made them all the more appealing to young football fans keen to outdo one another in the fashion stakes.

Jeans

While corduroy trousers and even flares have enjoyed waves of popularity in terrace fashion, it’s straight-leg denim that has prevailed. Ever since the early days in Liverpool, jeans have ruled the roost and as the casual look continues to evolve, so does its followers’ taste in denim.

Traditionally, mid-wash and stonewash fabric from Emporio Armani was probably the most widely worn – almost an afterthought to an expensive jacket and nice pair of trainers. However, today’s terrace-fashion aficionados are more clued up on their weights and wefts, often opting for heavy, raw denim from dedicated brands like Edwin and Nudie.

Scarf

A multipurpose accessory, useful for both keeping the chill off on wintery terraces and obscuring faces before and after a post-match scuffle, the scarf is deeply entrenched into the casual way of life.

Often worn to cover the nose and mouth, checks and tartans are what it’s all about. British brands, such as Burberry, Aquascutum and Barbour are all popular choices and are still a common sight at football grounds today.

Cap

For those casuals intent on fighting, baseball caps have always provided another handy means of keeping their faces hidden from CCTV cameras and police patrols. This practical use has seen the cap permeate terrace fashion making it the headwear of choice for for both violent and peaceful terrace lads alike.

Again, Burberry is a favourite brand, due to its luxury price tag and distinctive all-over check branding. Meanwhile, Polo Ralph Lauren and Lacoste are solid options at the lower end of the price spectrum.

Trainers

Terrace fashion is probably at least fifty per cent about the trainers. Having the most sought-after kicks is a huge part of causal culture and although the Reebok Classic is a staple option, it’s Adidas that rules the roost as far as footwear is concerned.

Classics like the Gazelle and the Samba have remained popular over the years. But during the early years, young fans were often travelling back and forth to Germany to pick up rare models that couldn’t be found in the UK.

Before the Milk Tray man, before the decade that fashion forgot and then remembered (that’s the 1970s, in case you were wondering) and before Steve Jobs, the humble roll neck was already at work, establishing itself as a cosy but cool way of styling out the cold.

A modern wardrobe staple with all the comfort of a crew neck sweatshirt, but with the added benefit of being considerably smarter, it’s fully earned its spot in the menswear hall of fame. “The roll neck jumper is a timeless classic thanks to its versatility and the fact that it’s extremely comfortable,” says male model and photographer Chris John Millington.

It’s become a staple of the front row set at Fashion Week in recent years, but it’s also retained a rugged masculine appeal (Daniel Craig’s Bond is a fan, for example). “They offer that Steve McQueen ‘man’s man’ feel that’s always appealing, but also provide the modern, refined look that men want right now,” adds Alex Field, head of menswear design at Reiss.

History Of The Roll Neck

The exact origins of the roll neck are as murky as the name itself (on the other side of the pond it’s more readily referred to as a ‘turtleneck’, while ‘polo neck’ is another frequently used term).

Whatever your preferred moniker, the consensus is that it came into being during the 15th century, meaning this natty piece of knitwear has been around in one form or another for at least 500 years.

Like much of menswear’s clothing canon, the roll neck was born out of utility, initially worn by menial workers, sailors and naval officers before being adopted by everyone from poets and professors to playboys and prepsters.

Despite the wide-ranging appeal of the northward-creeping neckline, it only earned its place as a bona fide wardrobe staple as recently as 50 years ago. It was 1968, a time when the roll neck had all the sartorial star power of a pair of Crocs. Enter Steve McQueen as a straight-talking police detective in Bullitt and, suddenly, every man was clamouring to add one to their collection.

Types Of Roll Neck

Perhaps even more confusing than the vagaries in name are the different types of roll neck available. Alongside classic styles, it’s quite common to see a roll neck that, well, doesn’t ‘roll’ at all, or iterations that are barely more than crew neck sweatshirt. Consider this your pullover primer.

Classic

The type of roll neck that has found favour with generations of stylish men is, not surprisingly, the most classic. Featuring an extended neckline that folds back on itself, the result is often the most formal, lending itself well to being worn with tailoring or under a winter coat.

Funnel Neck

A simpler variant of the classic roll neck, the funnel neck style is cut with a slightly shorter extended neckline, removing the need to fold back on itself. To give structure, most funnel neck designs are ribbed, but they can also borrow from athletic apparel by incorporating a zip.

Mock Neck

A hybrid of the funnel neck and crew neck sweatshirt, a mock neck knit locks in warmth with a slightly extended neckline. Best worn casually in a mid-weight, it’s the perfect way to add extra insulation to a winter look.

Know Your Gauges

Before fully warming to this refined, draft-excluding design it’s important to get a handle on the different types of gauges available (that’s the number of stitches per inch of fabric), which will impact not only its insulating abilities but also what it can be worn with.

Fine

Lightweight and form-fitting, a fine-gauge roll neck is the ideal piece to slip beneath a whole wardrobe’s worth of cold-weather staples. Smart enough to substitute for a formal shirt, particularly in temperature-regulating and breathable merino wool, it also looks just as good worn under a leather jacket for a faultless up-down combo. The not so wonderful news is that there’s nothing like second-skin fabric for highlighting a gym-dodger, so it’s wise to bulk up your fabric if you’re carrying a few extra pounds.

Mid-Weight

A far friendlier option for the exercise-intolerant, a mid-weight roll neck can add inches of warmth while disguising a more portly physique.

Versatile enough to work with both smart and casual looks (and, ergo, smart-casual ones, too) the added heft not only dials up the thermostat but also gives some gravitas to lighter colours such as cream.

Heavy

Once a staple prized by men’s men like Ernest Shackleton and Hemingway, today a chunky fisherman-style roll neck retains its appeal for keeping its wearer toasty in the worst possible weather.

The undisputed king of insulation, a thick wool knit in a waffle or cable knit design is perfect for a frigid commute or when pounding the parks and pavements at the weekend, especially when slipped under an overcoat.

6 Ways To Wear A Roll Neck

Menswear’s ebb and flow may not be as mercurial as womenswear’s sometimes tidal seasonal shifts, but we get our fair share of difficult trends (kilts, anyone?).

For a long time, roll necks fell unfairly under this category, but you only need to look as far as the five examples below to dispel the misconception that they’re impossibly difficult to style.

Back To The 1970s

The seventies are going strong in menswear, and few pieces are as synonymous with the decade of Concorde, glam rock and Kevin Keegan’s hair as the roll neck.

To nail the look, opt for a mid-weight knit and experiment with tucking it into a pair of trousers before capping off with a shearling jacket for bonus points. Leave the flares at the back of your dad’s wardrobe.

Under A Leather Jacket

With a list of wearers that includes Sir Michael Caine and James Bond, the roll neck isn’t lacking when it comes to masculine credentials.

To amp up the testosterone further, layer a mid-to-thick gauge roll neck under a leather jacket and finish with tailored trousers for a look that can fly in a business-casual office, or jeans for the weekend.

Under An Overcoat

Sometimes style and practicality are so hopelessly off-kilter that finding something that a) looks half-decent and b) is genuinely easy to wear, is just asking too much. However, when worn under an overcoat, a roll neck is an excellent way to brave low temperatures in high style.

For a smart outfit, anchor your top half with a pair of wool trousers and leather boots, or skew casual with chinos and sneakers for solid off-duty attire.

With A Suit

Whether it’s for a casual Friday getup that looks good outside the office or as a way to tackle party season without having to truss up in a tux, a light-gauge roll neck is the perfect partner for a suit.

Neutral colours that contrast with the tailoring are a failsafe bet, so build a rotation of blacks, blues and earthy shades before attempting something more daring, such as jewel tones.

Layer Player

The roll neck’s greatest asset is its versatility, allowing certain styles to work just as well as part of a more dressed-down rig. But rather than with joggers and work boots in homage to ‘Hotline Bling’, get creative with your layering instead.

A fine-gauge example can look surprisingly handsome under an Oxford shirt, while mid-gauge styles offer all the warmth of weightier versions when slotted under a gilet or overshirt.

With Streetwear

As with corduroy, dad jeans and chunky trainers, the once-stuffy roll neck has been embraced by young streetwear-leaning scenesters. Worn looser or with unexpected items (under a work shirt, say, or with some baggy cropped trousers), the trick here is remembering what would have been uncool five years ago and doing exactly that with a smile on your face.

The future of watches or a gimmick? Stylish, or not so? Smartwatches have been the biggest disruptor in the timepiece business ever since the first Apple watch was released in 2015. But, of course, watchmakers have been trying to pack more functionality into their products for decades, long before the advent of the smartphone.

Hamilton launched the first LED digital watch in 1972; Timex and Casio’s first calculator watches came out a few years later; in 1982 Seiko created a watch with an in-built TV, and two years later its first wrist-worn computer terminal; there was a pager watch in the 1990s; and Microsoft actually launched a ‘smartwatch’ – that’s what it called them – back in 2003.

Watches have always been getting more intelligent. But it was Apple’s – and more specifically the ability to link it to a smartphone – that was the game changer. Just how far that game has changed, or will, remains to be seen.

What Makes A Watch A Smartwatch?

First the mobile phone became, in effect, a computer in our pocket. Now the smartwatch looks – with further miniaturisation – to become a computer on our wrist, or at least an extension of one. For the time being, any advanced functionality is dependent on its connection to a nearby smartphone.

Montblanc Summit 2

Whether you need a smartwatch is another matter – they work well as fitness watches and perhaps for those who travel a lot. But beyond that it’s really for those, in a sense, too lazy to get their phone out of their pocket – a means of getting a quick glimpse or access to many of the apps the wearer uses.

At least, that’s how the Swiss watch industry tends to see them – more as novelty than real competition. After all, a mechanical watch is a very different thing – an expression of craft and materials that, arguably, evokes something emotional rather than practical.

That said, the famed makers of said watches are eyeing the boom in smartwatches somewhat nervously. This is because some studies have suggested that people raised on cellular tech not only have diminishing interest in wearing a watch full stop, but if they can be convinced to wear one, they expect it to do more than just tell the time.

Apple Watch

“I think the fact is that all of us will be wearing some kind of smart device in the next five to 10 years,” as watch designer Max Busser of MB&F has it, “because connectivity will just be that important. The possibilities for how these devices will be used are just so varied.”

Some kind of smartwatch – analogue, touchscreen, some kind of hybrid – is likely to be the mainstream future of wristwear, with mechanical watches surviving but becoming an ever more esoteric, specialist interest. Or, at least, that’s what this app says. But then it does need upgrading.

The Best Smartwatches On The Market

Apple Watch Series 4

It wasn’t the first, but thanks to the brand’s cultish following, Apple’s smartwatch certainly fired up interest in a product sometimes dismissed as more gimmick than benefit. As with any next-gen tech, it’s meant to be the same as before, but better, and the Series 4 is that: a larger screen, bigger buttons, improved sensors and better performance, including a ceramic and crystal case back, which improves cellular signal and makes performing calls with the watch now a real proposition.

If that is, talking into your wrist doesn’t still strike you as odd. But then, like Bluetooth ear-pieces gave us people talking to themselves, it’s only a matter of time before tech re-moulds our behaviour and the strange becomes mainstream.

Buy Now

Samsung Galaxy Watch

As the Apple Watch is for fans of Apple, so the Galaxy watch is for fans of Samsung – as with so much tech, the ecosystem of your smartwatch often matters. Unlike the sci-fi style of the Apple Watch, however, the Galaxy hides its functionality under the proverbial bushel – with that stainless steel case and diving watch-style bezel, it looks much more conventional than it is.

The bezel, in fact, is how you navigate the Galaxy’s applications, arguably a more satisfying method than big fingers on a tiny touchscreen. It’s good for fitness too – including swimming. This is a smartwatch that’s even water-resistant down to 50m.

Buy Now

Montblanc Summit 2

You can’t fault the exterior of this watch – DLC (or ‘diamond-like coated’) steel or grade 2 titanium are options – but then, to the tech-literate, the interior is impressive too: the Summit 2 has a new Qualcomm Snapdragon 3100 chip. One benefit of being the first smartwatch to have this is that it gives the wearer (a claimed) battery life of up to a week between charges on ‘time-only’ mode.

Yes, if you have to occasionally wind that mechanical watch, of course you more than occasionally have to plug in the smart variety. With Google’s Wear OS, Montblanc has clearly gone to the experts for the techy stuff and focused on the hardware itself – but in a clever way too. Those traditional pushers launch apps of your choosing.

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Tag Heuer Connected Modular 45

Tag Heuer was one of the first big names in luxury watchmaking to embrace the idea of the smartwatch, rather than to see it as the enemy. “We can’t ignore the trend,” as the brand’s then CEO Jean-Claude Biver put it when the Connected series was launched. “As a luxury brand with an ‘affordable’ entry price we could not miss the connected watch. We must adapt to tastes of a younger generation.”

Often reviewed as the best, if most expensive, Android smartwatch on the market – it’s the first smartwatch to achieve ‘Swiss made’ certification too – the Connected has a modular design, meaning there are some 4000 options of case and lug material, bezel colour, strap type and so on to make the watch more your own.

Buy Now

Frederique Constant Horological Smartwatch

Although the gulf between smartwatches and what the Swiss watch industry might call a ‘proper’ watch is closing, there’s still a sense that these are two distinct worlds. Frederique Constant is one of the first high-end makers to produce models that are very much classic timepieces on the outside, but – thanks to a partnership with Alpina and a Silicon Valley tech company – on the inside capable of two-way communication with a smartphone.

All info regarding alerts, sleep monitoring, activity tracking and the like is displayed using traditional analogue hands – which saves the aesthetic albeit, arguably, at the cost of utility. “There [have been] technical challenges, explains Frederique Constant’s head of watchmaking Pim Koeslag.

“Normally, for example, connected devices are essentially plastic to assist the transmission of radio waves, and stainless steel is not so good for that. So we had to rethink the dial to allow transmission through the glass – you can’t just start using materials not associated with high-end watchmaking. The results might encourage a re-think of the watch market and what a ‘smart’ watch is.”

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Fossil Collider Hybrid Smartwatch

If the watch world once made distinctions between serious watches and fashion ones, the advent of the smartwatch has opened up a new market for makers of the latter. Since the tech in a smartwatch is quickly outmoded, few people want to spend too much on one in the first place. Nor are ‘fashion’ watches beholden to the same standards of make as the ‘serious’ ones.

Enter the likes of Fossil, with a hybrid model – one which, typically lacking a touch screen, makes it more affordable or power-hungry too. The Collider looks as though it was designed at a swanky studio in Scandinavia, but its hands whizz and its vibration whirs to tell you to check your phone for various alerts.

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Huawei Watch 2 Sport

For every smartwatch trying to look like an upscale mechanical one, there’s a model happy to embrace the inherent shelf-life in tech with a more bare bones aesthetic. And so the Huawei Watch 2 may be a little plasticky (for all that it has a scratch-proof ceramic bezel) and a little bit bulky.

And yet it has 4GB of storage for music, GPS, wifi, bluetooth, 4G connectivity and – as many smartwatches at least aim at offering – a suite of toys to help your fitness regime, including a real-time heart-rate monitor, dedicated health app, coaching facility and workout stats. It won’t actually get you exercising – maybe a small electric shock every minute until you start moving would work – but it’s a good companion when you do.

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Tattoos are one of the ultimate forms of self-expression. Okay…they’re not for everyone, but if you are into your body and looking to get creative, the sky’s the limit.

Whether you’re getting inked with a small tattoo, a 3D tattoo, a beloved quote, a sweet sleeve, an out-there pattern—or anything in between—looking after your brand new body art is essential. And to do just that, you need to invest in a quality tattoo lotion.

Tattoo lotion will help to hydrate the skin and protect your body art in those delicate early phases—the right product will also make the ink site feel fresh throughout the day.

But, with so many options out there on the market these days, how do you pick a tattoo aftercare lotion that will work for you? The answer: we’re going to give you a helping hand with our ultimate best lotion for a new tattoo guide.

Read on to discover the best tattoo lotions on the market, plus top tips on what to look for in a quality body aftercare product.

This 100% vegan aftercare lotion is organic and boasts luxurious hints of mango. Not only is this creamy lotion recommended by top tattoo artists worldwide, but it’s excellent at keeping the skin hydrated and maintaining tattoo color in those all-important early days.

Active Ingredient: Vitamin E complex | Skin Type: All | Size: 5 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

If you have dry or sensitive skin and you’re worried about scratching your brand new body art into oblivion, Mad Rabbit—the repair edition—is what you need to succeed. Not only will this spritely tattoo aftercare lotion soothe the skin with essential oils, but with faint whiffs of almond, you’ll smell great too.

Active Ingredient: Argan oil | Skin Type: Sensitive | Size: 3.4 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

The Mad Rabbit Defend edition protects pale skin from the sun’s rays to ensure your brand new ink doesn’t get sore and scorched. This bad boy’s clean ingredients also work to keep the skin cool while soothing the inked area for hours at a time. A double threat product for anyone with fair or irritable skin.

Active Ingredient: Zinc oxide and vitamin C | Skin Type: Fair | Size: 3.4 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

Harnessing the healing powers of olive oil (yes, you can use it for more than frying things or drizzling over salads), Tattoo Goo’s delicate aftercare lotion is packed with fast-healing natural ingredients that are especially effective for looking after larger surfaces areas—or in other words—big, bold pieces of body ink.

Active Ingredient: Olive oil | Skin Type: Normal to dry | Size: 2 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

While this tattoo lotion may contain petrolatum and be a little less natural than other products on our list, this reliable salve not only helps to protect and preserve new tattoos, but it’s also great for soothing burns, aches, or for everyday skincare use. Basically, with Aquaphor, you get a lot of bang for your buck.

Active Ingredient: Petrolatum | Skin Type: All | Size: 14 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: No

As you might have guessed, H2Ocean’s tattoo aftercare lotion is water-based—it’s also petroleum-free. Oh, and it’s brimming with all-natural ingredients found in the Red Sea’s ecosystem. This fragrance-free concoction’s soothing properties reduce scabbing, are great for ultra-itchy skin, and are allergy-free—a real triple threat.

Active Ingredient: Sea mineral | Skin Type: Itchy | Size: 2.5 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

If you’re rocking a sleeve or a vivid tattoo design with lots of lines or colors, this tasty little number from INKredible may be the skin elixir for you. Known as a glow salve, the lotion contains beeswax to work as an anti-inflammatory while helping to preserve, as well as intensify, detailed patterns and colors.

Active Ingredient: Beeswax | Skin Type: All | Size: 3.8 fl. oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

This light and airy lotion from After Inked works wonders with every skin type and its balanced blend of ingredients are so kind, that you can even apply it to facial tattoos (in case you’re sporting that Post Mallone, Lil’ Wayne, or Travis Barker kind of look). The great thing about this delicate lotion is that it’s great for new tattoos and keeps older tattoos looking fresh.

Active Ingredient: Grapeseed | Skin Type: All | Size: 3 x 0.24 fl. Oz pillow packs | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

Besides the fact that the Badger branding is simply epic (just look at that cheeky furball), this non-GMO lotion is a brilliant allrounder that is effective for every type of skin and style of tattoo. The natural botanic ingredients offer top-notch ink protection and they smell wonderful (in a subtle, non-overbearing way).

Active Ingredient: Coconut and tamanu oil | Skin Type: All | Size: 2 fl. Oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes (it’s a super eco-friendly product)

While Devoted Creations’ tattoo lotion is indeed powerful, we’re pleased to let you know that it is cruelty and paraben-free. The lotion’s unique Pure Accelerator Formula helps to lock in tattoo color while helping your skin go up to three shades darker, ensuring your body art continues to pop in the process.

Active Ingredient: Acai oil | Skin Type: All | Size: 8.5 fl. Oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

Branded as an aftercare lubricant, this cheeky little pot of goodness from Redemption looks and feels like a petroleum barrier ointment—but, it’s petroleum-free (bonus). Made with mainly natural products, this tattoo lotion is an excellent option if you’re looking for a robust protective layer post-inking (or for the times when you feel your tat needs a little extra TLC).

Active Ingredient: Organic castor oil | Skin Type: All | Size: 1 fl. Oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

Last but certainly not least in our best lotion for new tattoo list is this welcome addition from CalfLove. This lotion is excellent for keeping simpler tattoos moisturized and healthy, but it’s excellent for colorful body art—and its versatile formula is perfect for treating the skin before and after your inking and daily tattoo care.

Active Ingredient: Shea butter | Skin Type: All | Size: 2.5 fl. Oz | SPF: None | Cruelty-Free: Yes

What to look for in a tattoo lotion

You know which tattoo lotions are the best of the best. Now, to help you cement your decision, we’re going to tell you what to look for in the right tattoo lotion by considering the Three S’s.

SPF

Containing an SPF—or sun protection factor—is by no means a deal-breaker (many lotions don’t contain an SPF). But, if you’re going away on holiday freshly tattooed, you’re fair-skinned or you live in a hot climate, grabbing a lotion that soothes your tattoo while shielding the area from the sun’s rays is probably a good idea.

Skin type

When it comes to being kind to the skin, not all tattoo lotions are made equal. That means that while some lotions are kind to very sensitive skin, some can act as an irritant and could harm your tattoo. That said, you should always check what kind of skin type a lotion caters for before hitting the buy button.

Size

Depending on your budget and how long you plan to use your lotion (a few weeks versus ongoing), you should look at the flow-ounce quantity of a lotion before committing. If you’re looking to use a lotion long term, getting something in larger quantities is advisable. But, if you travel a lot, smaller tubes or tubs will be far more convenient.

Bonus tip: Always check a lotion’s active ingredients and what they do for your skin. This will ensure you get the right product for your skin type, tattoo style, and personal goals, preferences, or needs.