Month: November 2021

And stop sweeping real stories of fertility under the rug.

It’s next to impossible to flip through the pages of a lifestyle glossy or scroll on social media without being confronted by articles speculating about a celebrity’s baby bump or analyzing their “post-baby bikini body.” This fascination with famous uteri is an extension of the way we glorify reproduction in our culture at large, and frustratingly, the media’s celebrity pregnancy obsession is narrowing the scope of how pregnancy and fertility are discussed more broadly.

This reproductive surveillance not only perpetuates a culture of obsession with childbearing bodies, it also sweeps much of the physical toll, financial cost and burden under the rug. The result? A huge portion of people trying to conceive are operating under unrealistic expectations, weighed down by guilt and shame, or left out of the conversation entirely.

Dr. Lila Hakim, a psychologist and director at Toronto’s Centre for Interpersonal Relationships, says her patients often express a “confusion around what the norms are” when it comes to conception and fertility, and that confusion can stem from the way fertility is covered in the media.

“It sets up ideas [that the fertility journey doesn’t require] a lot of resources — financially, time-wise, support wise,” Hakim, who specializes in family-building and fertility issues, says. “Rather than seeing the whole, that sliver [of coverage] creates expectations that people then potentially compare themselves to and say, ‘Well, how come that’s not happening for me?’ That can be quite confusing because people don’t necessarily have access to the same resources and no one’s journey is the same.”

There’s also the matter of expectations. When we see a celebrity in their 40s and 50s having a baby, the story behind the pregnancy is told too infrequently. Brigitte Nielsen is one exception. The Creed II actor, who used IVF to have a daughter at age 54, was upfront about the realities of that process. “You’re on a lot of medication. It is very expensive,” she told The Guardian in 2019. “You always think you’re going to get pregnant, but most of the time, the phone call comes and it’s: ‘I’m sorry.’ It is devastating.” Nielsen likened her chances of conceiving to winning a lottery — and she is among a privileged group who can afford the ticket price.

“It’s lonely,” says Canadian clothing designer Laine Gabel, the creative and owner behind the Hasting County, Ontario brand Mildred Handmade, whose struggles with fertility stem from endometriosis, its sister disease adenomyosis, and fibroids. “That’s how I feel when it’s just like a basic pregnancy announcement. I scroll past it quickly, I don’t click. I mean, I still cry every single time I see labour on a TV show.”

Gabel points to the element of ableism inherent in the way we talk about pregnancy, which fails to acknowledge that everyone’s reproductive organs work the same way. Endometriosis, for example, a chronic health condition that can cause pain, fatigue, organ dysfunction and infertility, can result in scar tissue on reproductive organs that make conception difficult. On top of that, the drugs used in fertility treatments can cause endometriosis flare ups.

“If there was a more general acknowledgement and basic understanding of the complexities of these things, then we would have more empathy for the average person who is infertile. We wouldn’t just be like, ‘So when are you having kids?’ It’s not just this basic bodily function for everybody,” she says.

But that’s slowly changing. While social media feeds continue to be populated with strangers’ rounded bellies and aestheticized portrayals of newborn life, it’s also become a platform for recent breakthroughs in the kinds of conversations we’re having. In early 2020, Amy Schumer used Instagram to detail her IVF experience — right down to the number of eggs retrieved (35), the number fertilized (26), and the number of healthy embryos that came out of it all (one). And this past summer when Chrissy Teigen shared her family’s loss of their third child with a series of personal photos documenting the partial placental abruption that led to her miscarriage, she gave thousands of women an overt and lasting permission to grieve a kind of loss that for so long remained untalked about. It’s a step in the right direction, but there’s still a ways to go.

“You still don’t hear about people who use donor eggs,” says Dr. Carrie Schram, a Toronto MD whose practice is in fertility and low risk obstetrics. She explains that women in their mid- to late-forties and beyond are often using that method. “I think that’s the area of fertility that remains very taboo… Once you’re looking at donor eggs, there’s no discussion.”

The struggle to conceive continues to be treated like a dark secret or, at best, a private matter while coverage of celebrity fertility focuses overwhelmingly on the tiresome bump watch and over-the-top birth announcements. But across both traditional media and on social media, celebrity pregnancy stories are given a platform because there’s a guaranteed audience — measured in clicks, likes, and reshares. We, the audience, engage with these stories with little consideration about how they turn women’s bodies into objects with a singular purpose: reproduction.

“Reproduction is highly glorified. Sure, it’s a part of who we are and what we do as a species but so does every other species that exists,” Schram says. “I think this creates a lot of binary distinctions that otherwise wouldn’t be there. Fertility’s a spectrum, and whether you have a harder time getting pregnant at 40 or not, it actually has zero relation to your value as a person…I think your value as a person should be, ‘How kind are you? Do you contribute in a meaningful way to the lives of other people?’ Not, ‘Did a sperm reach your egg and implant efficiently?’”

Gabrielle Union put it best when she suggested that the way we currently talk about the subject of pregnancy requires a complete rethink. “For so many women… people feel very entitled to know, ‘Do you want kids?’” Union told People ahead of the release of her 2017 book We’re Going To Need More Wine, where she opened up about having “eight or nine miscarriages.”

“A lot of people, especially people that have fertility issues, just say ‘No’ because that’s a lot easier than being honest about whatever is actually going on. People mean so well, but they have no idea the harm or frustration it can cause.”

And though we don’t expect that notion of entitlement — observable not only in media but in politics and in our day to day lives — to disappear anytime soon, changing the way we talk about celebrity pregnancy could pave the way for more meaningful conversations around fertility in the future.

Including a Palais Galliera exhibit honouring the late Alber Elbaz.

Tom Daley launches his own knitting kits

It’s likely that you’ve seen footage of gold medal diver Tom Daley knitting away on the sidelines of Olympic competitions. He’s garnered so much attention — almost effortlessly, as this is a form of self-care and expression for the athlete — amassing a following of 1.4 million on his knitting-dedicated Instagram page. Now, diver Daley is bringing the cozy, chunky cables of wool right to you with the launch of his own brand, Made With Love by Tom Daley. Included in this launch are 15 knitting kits for all levels of expertise, each one complete with needles, biodegradable pure wool yarn and patterns. Get your hands on the first launch (named 1896 after the year of the inaugural modern Olympics), and choose from kits that range from jumpers and cardigans to accessories and novelty items.

The Palais Galliera celebrates the late Alber Elbaz with Love Brings Love exhibit

Paris fashion museum, The Palais Galliera, is hosting an exhibit that honours the life of renowned designer Alber Elbaz. Mimicking Paris Fashion Week’s October 5 tribute show that was organized by the fashion industry (46 fashion houses and designers, both established and emerging, came together to create pieces inspired by the man and his prolific legacy) to pay homage to Elbaz, the exhibit will immerse visitors in a full runway experience, exactly recreating the unforgettable night in fashion history. From the order on the runway, to the music, effects and lights, expect to see the Love Brings Love presentation just as it showed live two months ago. If you’re travelling to France between March 5 and July 10, 2022, capitalize on the one-of-a-kind opportunity to relish in the flowing gowns, long trains, dresses with ruffles, big bows and printed drawings of Elbaz.

Frank And Oak opens a new flagship store in B.C.

This week, Frank And Oak opened up a west coast flagship location in Kitsilano B.C. Officially the largest location yet, this store is a notable achievement in the label’s growth strategy. What’s more, the Montreal-based brand is expanding its retail footprint outside of North America for the very first time, with a location opening in Shanghai, China on December 1. Plus, an additional international location is set to open in Chicago, Illinois.

Gucci’s Vault is showcasing 12 jewellery designers

Gucci’s online concept store, Vault, is showcasing a new intake of talent. Twelve creatives who work with the art of crafting jewellery — Seb Brown, Mondo Mondo, Bernard James, Bleue Burnham, Charlotte Chesnais, Georgia Kemball, Martine Ali, Rebekah Kosonen Bide, Fraser Hamilton, Castro Smith, Tétier and Elie Top — will be hosted on Vault and contribute their stories to the creative and ever-growing platform. Additionally, Vault will simultaneously present its fourth drop of pre-owned vintage Gucci pieces, handpicked by Creative Director Alessandro Michele and the fashion house’s archivists.

Tiffany & Co. staged a celebration of love in Niagara Falls

This week, Tiffany & Co. paid tribute to Niagara Falls — one of the natural wonders of the world and a place known to inspire romantic, love-filled gestures. Using the massive waterfall as a backdrop for its About Love campaign the iconic jewellery brand projected the About Love video onto the historic decommissioned Toronto Power Generating Station. Now that’s a grand gesture.

Kanuk opens flagship store in New York

Montreal outerwear brand Kanuk has made its inaugural landing in the United States, officially opening its doors to a flagship location in New York City’s SoHo neighbourhood. This is the brand’s first standalone store outside of Quebec, and is designed to have a sensory experience evoking Montreal’s emblematic winter climate. Shop the array of punchy coats and puffy styles, with exclusives designed for the location.

Want opens new retail concept in Montreal

Want Les Essentiels announced it has opened a brand new flagship store in Montreal’s historic Mile-End neighbourhood. The space is inspired by transitional and mobile spaces, featuring clean lines and cool tone shades that don’t distract from the artful nature of Want’s leather goods.

KATLA comes to Canada

Conscious womenswear brand KATLA is now shipping to Canada, and as of December 6, the website will offer Canadian currency for an even smoother customer experience. Inspired by the raw nature of Iceland, the timeless fashion brand embedded with conscious practices will continue carrying the goal of reducing fashion’s negative impact on the environment across the world.

Canadian jewellery brand Bloodline Vancouver pop-up

Vancouver-based jewellery brand Bloodline Design is hosting a pop-up shop for locals to shop its never-before-seen capsule collection and best-selling heritage pieces ahead of the holidays. After 25 years of crafting high-quality, handmade pieces, the brand has proven to have a timeless element to its designs, and has kept itself available to everyone with prices that range from $100 to $2000. The pop-up is located at 2235 West 4th Avenue and is open until December 4.

Including Rugrats Chanukah-inspired makeup that will take you right back to the ‘90s.

Pharrell’s Humanrace launches body care

Almost exactly a year ago, multidisciplinary creative Pharrell Williams (with his perfect, taut, glowing skin and all) launched a minimalist skincare line, Humanrace. This week the brand expanded its offerings with body care, and a gentle reminder that taking the time to care for yourself brings greater balance, confidence and stability to your life. Included in the new, all-gender body care drop is a soapless body bar (it’s not soap, but a formula that cleanses just as hard without stripping your skin of its natural oils) and a charcoal exfoliating bar, a.k.a., the “bodycare dermatologist.” Your showers (and/or baths… Pharrell’s morning bath is a daily ritual) just got better.

Hipdot creates a Rugrats Chanukah collection

This week on Instagram, OTT beauty brand Hipdot hinted toward an upcoming collection featuring the Rugrats, completely inspired by the iconic Chanukah episode. Wrapped up in a white and blue collectors box, the Hipdot x Rugrats lineup will consist of a nine shade eyeshadow palette, two double-sided lip glosses (such fun), a blue sponge embossed with Tommy, Angelica and Chuckie face sheet masks and a special Tommy pin. The beloved ‘90s cartoon lives on this holiday season.

Louis Vuitton reveals a notable new flacon

Les Parfums Louis Vuitton’s The Ultimate Flacon is the latest perfume bottle in the beauty world, boasting opulence and simplicity all at once. Created by Marc Newson as a limited-edition 200-piece fleet, each one unique with a number and engraved pieces, the bottle is made from the most precious Baccarat crystal with age-old blowing techniques.

“It’s scaled up to a sculptural dimension and takes inspiration from vintage fragrance displays,” said Newson in a press release. The one-litre flacon comes enclosed in a glass dome and leather base, making it a beautiful addition to your cabinet of curiosities, and is the perfect candidate for one day receiving heirloom status.

Dezi Skin launches a gift set of minis

On December 1, Dezi Skin is bringing fans The Holiday Kit, a set that includes all three of the brand’s products in travel sizes. Tonal and easy on the eyes, the Masque On overnight moisture mask, Claro Que C vitamin C Glow Serum and Dew Me Over prep set and refresh mist come wrapped up in a cute, textured, brown box, with a hidden message written inside. “Little steps in the right direction, make for big change.”

CND reveals hand soaps and body lotions as part of its newly formulated body range

If you’re one to get your nails done, you are likely familiar with CND’s wide range of salon colours. Now, the professional nail product and service brand has formulated a range of hand and body products that is primed for both the home and the salon. Inspired by nature, the hand wash is available in five refreshing scents, while the hand and body lotions come in six different scents.

Carl Chiang’s fascination with sex and gender has led to an obsession with early Helmut Lang.

Can you even call yourself a collector if you don’t break a few racks in the process? Not according to Philippine-born Carl Chiang, whose hefty Helmut Lang collection caused the poles in their walk-in wardrobe to collapse. “My partner and I were having dinner when I heard this terrible sound,” shares Chiang. “My first reaction wasn’t ‘How are we going to clean this up?’ or ‘The landlord is going to kill us.’ It was ‘Are any of my pieces damaged?’” After a similarly disastrous run-in with Ikea containers, the founder of fashion events and communications agency Archival Toronto has since learned their lesson: Their 130-piece hoard is now supported on industrial cylinders that can hold over 200 kilograms. “I’ve discovered that only metal pipes can sustain the weight,” they say.

In a case of life imitating art, this intersection between style and practicality would be sure to make Lang proud — the designer is revered for pioneering the anti-luxury aesthetic of the ’90s. After launching his eponymous label in 1986, Lang garnered a cultlike status for his ability to blend military and minimalist designs with androgynous styles and bondage accents. He left his label in 2005, but his affinity for representing the LGBTQ+ community lives on through his work, which is what initially mesmerized Chiang. “When I was growing up, sex wasn’t something that you talked about in a conservative Filipino environment,” they reveal. “Many items in my collection lean into Lang’s BDSM references because to me, there is something superfun and supersexy about such a taboo subject. Fashion can bring these subcultures into the spotlight and challenge the heteronormativity of what sex looks like.”

Thanks to their mother’s love of designer accessories, Carl Chiang fostered a passion for fashion at an early age, culminating in their first Helmut Lang purchase — an army-green jacket from the 1999 Astro collection — in 2014. However, it wasn’t until two years (and a move to Canada) later that their obsession exploded as the more centralized location made it easier to connect with sellers and other Helmut Lang aficionados.

Chiang is a true historian. Their Helmut Lang knowledge is unparalleled; they are able to effortlessly identify the year, season and inspiration behind each item in their closet. They take their role as a curator quite seriously, collecting both menswear and womenswear that play significant roles in Lang’s legacy. “I’ve never collected based on what I can wear,” reveals Chiang. “It’s mostly what I think was important to the designer and fun. So if I see a piece from an iconic runway look, I take it regardless of its size or gender.”

Still, the collector insists that the message behind the creations, not the actual garments, fuels their Helmut Lang love affair. The designer’s balance between being referential and humorous makes his clothing a staple in Chiang’s closet. “What continues to strike me is not the construction of his pieces but his ability to communicate an artistic vision,” they say. “It’s his expressionism through fashion that I love.”

This is article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2022 issue.

Well, well, well, Black Friday/ Cyber Monday, we meet again. As editors who love stayingin bed, bedding, we are happy to report back that Brooklinen, on of our favorite homeware brands, finally dropped its annual sale Super-soft sheet sets, thick towel bundles, comfy pillows, you name it, is on sale from now and until 11:59 PM EST on November 28. Until then, you can score 20 perfect off site-wide at Brooklinen.com using the code BLACKFRIDAY. Yes! Site-wide.

Since this is only Brooklinen’s biggest sale of the year, it’s time to stock up on everything you need bed-wise for the next 365 days. We’ve covered their super soft sheets before, but don’t miss out on the label’s his & hers robes, cozy slippers, and insanely fragrant candles you should keep on deck in case you need a last-minute holiday gift.

Anyway, check out some of our favorite can’t-miss deals, below. And seriously, don’t sleep on this Black Friday sale. (Get it?)

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The Toronto gala scene came bouncing back on Nov. 25 with Bloor Street Entertains, an annual fundraiser for the Canadian Foundation for Aids Research (CANFAR). Last year’s event was a virtual one, like many charity fundraisers over the past 20 months. But the CANFAR team carefully plotted to ensure that this year’s 25th anniversary edition was a safe in-person soirée.

More than 850 guests gathered in a range of locations on or near Bloor Street and at several after-party spots further afield.

CANFAR ambassadors appeared at each venue to share the story of how their lives have been impacted by the virus. “I was born with full-blown Aids,” 23-year-old Ashley Rose Murphy told a rapt crowd at Tiffany & Co. Her early years were filled with hospital visits – “I thought all kids did that,” she shared. But when she was seven, her adoptive parents told her the real reason for all the doctor appointments. Thanks to advances in treatment and one pill a day, Murphy lives a relatively normal life, though not without stigma. “A bunch of parents at my school got together and told the principal they wanted me out because of my health status,” she recalls. “That principal stood up for me and told them their kids could leave; I was staying.”

Fighting stigma is one effort the $1.1 million raised will go towards. Another is spreading the word about self-testing kits, which became available in Canada last year. More than 65,000 Canadians are living with HIV, though 14 per cent aren’t aware of their status. CANFAR’s goal is to eliminate new HIV transmissions in Canada by 2025 through increased prevention.

Click through to see photos from the event.

Nordstrom’s Black Friday and Cyber Monday sale is currently happening, and it’s really, really good. And one of the best deals right now is the major markdown on the fan-fave Natori Feathers Underwire Contour Bra. It has an impressive 3,300+ reviews and a 4.6-star rating out of 5 just in case you needed convincing that it is in fact a favorite.

With lace trim and molded mesh cups that provide support, this is the T-shirt bra you’re going to want to wear with everything. (Knit sweaters? Your favorite Zoom top? Your go-to sweats? Check, check, check.) It also has adjustable straps, a plunge neckline, and “elastic-edged, stretch-lace wings hug the figure securely without digging in,” according to the description. This comfy design just gives and gives and asks nothing in return.

While Natori Feathers Underwire Contour Bra typically costs $68, you can score it for just around $40 depending on the color way you choose and the sizes available. And they’re going quick, folks! Nordstrom’s Black Friday sale only lasts through Nov. 26 (today!), so you better snag it at a discount while you can.

If your size is already sold out, don’t worry. The retailer is also slashing the prices of a bunch of other Natori styles. From full-coverage silhouettes to a versatile convertible bra, there’s bound to be something for everyone. If you want to give your boobs the support they need (because they deserve it) or are ready to put on some real clothes again, this is the perfect time to restock your lingerie drawer.

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It’s all in the name.

Capes may be fashion’s most versatile garment. I mean, what other piece can simultaneously conjure images of a late 2000s Blair Waldorf, a “Sad Affleck” in superhero tights, and a rainy ride on a Log Flume?

Enter Bettina Mueller Reichl, founder of Vancouver-based Cape de Coeur and avid cape enthusiast. Playing on the French adage coup de coeur (which roughly translates to “something you love”), the brand was born out of a need for stylish rainwear. “We call it a technical high fashion brand,” says Reichl. “The idea was to create a new category of outerwear because I truly believe that it should be practical as much as it should be beautiful.”

Although the Austrian-born designer has over 25 years of experience in the fashion industry, she credits the weather in British Columbia as the initial source of inspiration behind the label. “One day when I was still working at Lululemon, my colleague came in and started to complain about the rain and how there are no nice raincoats,” Reichl reflects. “That was the moment where I was like, ‘Oh my God, there’s a gap in the market!’ Because there are many functional jackets but none that you could wear with Chanel.”

With that in mind, FASHION spoke with the creative director on sustainability, West Coast style, and everything else involving capes.

How would you describe the style of your brand in three words?

“Powerful, spirited, innovative.”

Why capes?

“I love the drama! I love the history of the cape and how powerful they can make you feel on a psychological level. But they’re also incredibly functional. Capes effortlessly protect your beautiful outfit and accessories from the elements.”

What’s one piece from your new collection that is especially meaningful to you?

Without a doubt, it’s the ‘Guardian’ — I’ve had the most incredible in-store shopping experiences with this cape. When shoppers try it on, they say, “Oh my God, I feel so strong,” and that is the biggest reward as a designer, to know your work has made someone feel great!

What would you say makes your capes so unique?

All Cape de Coeur pieces are crafted in the brand’s proprietary CoeurTex™ fabrication. The material is very special and was only invented a couple of years ago. I found it through the activewear world – where there is so much technical innovation — and it was initially developed for mountaineering jackets, so the cape is wind, water and snow proof but without looking “plastic-y.” We also use a three-layer system with a membrane in the middle that’s incredibly breathable and then an inner layer to keep the wearer comfortable.

What is something about your brand that would surprise people?

We’re a team made up of independent experts in various fields. We don’t have a traditional model where there’s a CEO and coworkers in an office. I work with people from all over the world.

How does your brand approach sustainability?

I genuinely believe the best way to be sustainable is to shop for quality versus quantity. At Cape de Coeur, we focus on creating pieces that you can keep in your closet for multiple seasons and maintaining a short supply chain to reduce our environmental impact.

How would you describe Vancouver’s style?

I would say the West Coast “uniform” is Lululemon leggings, Blundstone boots and a waterproof jacket. It’s a very useful and practical way to dress, but it has to be because it rains so much.

What is your favourite season, based solely on wardrobe?

Fall! I love outerwear and layering.

What is the most-worn item in your closet?

My husband teases me about it constantly, but I wear my black Rag & Bone jeans all the time!

What are four items that are bringing you joy right now?

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Welcome to Texture Talk, a column that celebrates and deep dives into the dynamic world of curly hair, from crowns of curls that are free flowing to strands that are tucked away in a protective style.

Many of us are delighted to be able to return to salons and unload our tresses (and stresses) onto our stylist’s chair. When it comes to cutting curly hair, it’s a unique experience that should be handled with care. It’s also best to avoid a DIY cut, which can “lead to an uneven disaster,” says Shai Amiel (a.k.a. “the curl doctor”), who has worked with stars like Tamera Mowry and Kehlani. Haircuts are a service that needs to be delivered by a professional hairstylist, adds Vernon François, global consultant for Redken and global inclusivity and education adviser for Kérastase, whose client roster includes Serena Williams, Lupita Nyong’o and Willow Smith. Otherwise, “it could end up being costly if you have to restyle or if you accidentally create more split ends,” he says. Here, the two celebrity hairstylists break down their best advice on how to prepare for, perfect and take care of your curly cut.

Time to trim

It’s time for a cut “if your ends appear thin and wispy versus your mid-lengths or if the shape of your original hairstyle is growing out,” explains François. If you have kinky hair, one of the telltale signs is when the ends of your strands begin to tangle consistently. For many, length can be one of the most treasured elements of textured hair, especially if you’ve been blessed with extremely tight curls. Even if you’re looking to maintain your length, regular trims every three to four months will keep hair at its healthiest, says Amiel. “Snipping those ends on a regular basis will stop them from splitting down the shaft.” It can also help with length retention and promote hair growth in the long run.

Prep work

The next step is to book a consultation. Both Amiel and François agree that you should have a conversation with your stylist prior to your appointment so that both of you are clear on your expectations. This is also the best time for your stylist to share the benefits of cutting more or less hair than you intended so you can make an informed decision. Arrive at your appointment with your hair styled in its most natural state or in the way you will be wearing it post-cut. “It’s best to wash it the day of or the day before, allowing it to dry in its natural state without manipulating it,” recommends Amiel. For best results, skip out on any type of bun, ponytail or braid and avoid wearing hats, clips, scarves or heavy oils.

Appointment-day essentials

Once you arrive at your curly cut appointment, what can you expect from your stylist? Amiel, who gave Kehlani that coveted pixie cut, likes to snip hair curl by curl in order to get the best results. The beautiful thing about curly hair is that, like snowflakes, no two curls are the same. In order to achieve a somewhat uniform appearance, it’s important to give each curl special attention. As the process begins, it may look like the stylist is cutting a lot of hair, but there’s no general rule when it comes to cutting, says François. “The amount that is cut will depend on the rate of hair growth, how long it’s been since your last trim, your lifestyle and whether you’re looking to maintain, shorten or extend your overall hair length.”

Post-cut care

All roads lead back to your stylist. Amiel recommends documenting the cutting and styling process and using the products that have been recommended for you. He also emphasizes steering clear of heat styling tools like straighteners and blow-dryers. In fact, stretching your hair in any capacity should be avoided at all costs. “Let each curl or coil fall and form the ringlet it wants without manipulation,” says Amiel. “For best results, don’t even put your hair in a bun or a ponytail until it’s completely dry. If you pull your wet or damp hair back while stretching it and force it to dry elongated, your curl pattern will be weakened. This is as damaging as using a blow-dryer and round brush.” Finally, if you get a curly cut you regret, remember that it’s hair and it will grow back.

This is article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2021 issue.